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scuba stories, diving stories

Martin's Haven, Pembrokeshire

snew2If you’re looking for a dive site where only the marine life comes in crowds, Trevor Rees suggests a shore dive in Wales with an unspoiled charm and plenty to see

Haven sent: the bay at Martin’s Haven
All photos: Trevor Rees



Clingfish


Crawfish


A seal basks on the rocks


Map of Martin's Haven

Those looking for an alternative to some of the busier and more crowded dive sites in England should consider the small quiet bay of Martin’s Haven in the far western corner of Pembrokeshire. Combining a quiet, relaxed area and a site full of superb marine life, it can make for some great diving.

Martin’s Haven lies within the Skomer Marine Nature Reserve and a ‘no take’ policy is strictly enforced in this area. There are heavy fines imposed on anyone who takes certain species from this site. As a consequence, the marine life here is rich and diverse.

The site has good access, with a conveniently located National Trust car park close to the sea, leaving a short walk to the shore entry point. The walk is down a steep tarmac road to a small beach, which is easy on the downhill but requires a quite a bit more effort on the return. Entry and exit to the water is from a gently sloping stony beach – you need to take care, as slippery rocks are exposed at low tide.

The Skomer ferry operates out of Martin’s Haven during the summer, and divers should consider their safety and keep clear of it. The bay faces north and the best dive route is possibly along the deeper western side of the bay. The depth increases steadily as you head out, with up to 30m to be found past the northwest corner. A surface swim may help you to maximise dive time if you are planning a deeper dive.

Unusually for a shore dive, decompression requirements need consideration, especially if you expect to make a long underwater return. Also, if venturing outside of the bay, be mindful that there may be strong currents. The eastern side of the bay is shallower and makes a great second dive.

The variety of marine life is extensive, and it is a pleasant surprise to see so many healthy specimens on a shore dive. Scallops thrive on the flat, sandy areas of the bay, and lobsters and large edible crabs live among the rocky areas. The less common crawfish may also be seen. Octopus, weaverfish and – occasionally in summer – triggerfish have been spotted. Several nudibranch species can be found, along with numerous candy-striped flatworms, and there is a brittlestar bed further out. For those interested in beachcombing, clingfish can be found at low tide under the rocks on the beach and, in some winters, the beach may be home to one or two seal pups.

If there is a downside to the area, it is the frequent poor visibility. If you’re planning a trip, get a weather forecast and find out whether the winds have been favourable in the preceding week. Avoid northerly winds, which blow straight into the bay. Once visibility is lost, it can take up to a week of calm weather before reasonable viz returns.



Need to know
Directions
Heading west, follow the M4 all the way to the end. Join the A40 to Haverfordwest and continue on the B4327 Dale Road. Before Dale, turn off and take the road through the village of Marloes. This road leads to Martin’s Haven.

Tidal and weather considerations
You can dive Martin’s Haven at all states of tide, but there is a danger of strong currents outside the bay. The strongest tides are around high water Milford Haven. The site is well protected from southerly winds but northerlies should be avoided. I’d take advice from West Wales Divers on the local conditions, especially the visibility.

Safety
Keep clear of the Skomer ferry and consider using a surface marker buoy (SMB).

No-take policy
There are fines for divers found removing certain species from this site.

Air fills
Air and nitrox fills are £4 and £8 respectively.

Parking
Parking is at the National Trust car park close to the site at £3 per day per car.

Facilities
There are toilets and a small, unmanned visitor hut on the short walk from the car park down to the shore. In winter, these are both closed. The Skomer Marine Nature Reserve has an office and small centre next to the car park. There is no café or other facilities within walking distance. West Wales Divers is situated at Hasguard Cross and offers a shop and a helpful dive centre. Use of air and the dive shop are by prior arrangement during the winter months.

West Wales Divers
Tel: 01437 781457
Web: http://www.westwalesdivers.co.uk

Local BSAC branch
For a list of local branches, see http://www.bsac.com.
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