Shorething: Chesil Beach, Dorset

Stretching out: the expanse of Chesil Beach makes for an impressive sight. Photo by Richard Trevithick Divers crawl out of the surf up the shingle beach. Photo by Simon Rogerson Hermit crab. Photo by Richard Trevithick

The expanse of pebbles that makes up Chesil Beach in Dorset stretches 18 miles from Chesil Cove all the way to West Bay. During years gone by, Chesil acted as a giant net, ready to entrap the unwary seafarer. Two such vessels were the Royal Adelaide and the Nor, which both came ashore close to the Portland end of the beach. Today, both sites can be explored either separately or in a single dive from the shore.

Underwater, the pebbles continue down in terraces, quite steeply at first before levelling out between 10m and 15m. The pebble habitat may initially appear barren, but on closer inspection, you’ll find it to be teeming with life. The smooth, sunny surfaces of the larger rocks are enjoyed by tiny crabs, squat lobsters and hermit crabs. In winter, fish eggs are glued to the pebbles, waiting for the return of warmer waters to hatch. Pipefish also enjoy this habitat.

To enter the water, set out from the visitors’ centre, crossing a short marshy area, and then traverse diagonally to the right over grass and then up the pebble slope to the summit ridge. When you reach the top, place yourself in line with the third lamppost to the left of the visitors’ centre (excluding the one directly behind it), and the fort (marked as ‘C’ Head fort on the chart) at the end of the northern arm of the Portland Harbour breakwater. As a check, you should be a good few metres to the north of a small brick structure in the pebbles. If you plan to dive in a southerly-going current, you should place yourself upstream of the wreck. Walk down to the sea from here.

The Royal Adelaide, an iron-built emigrant clipper bound for Australia, was driven onto Chesil on 25 November 1872, after the skipper made an unsuccessful and ultimately tragic bid to retreat around the Bill to seek shelter from a gale. The details of the sinking are well documented.

The wreckage of the Adelaide sits at 11m, but just before reaching it, you should come across anchor chain and other wreckage. If you get to 11m, but have found no evidence of wreckage, turn left, keeping your depth constant. The bow should soon loom ahead, standing several metres high and listing over to port. An admiralty anchor lies close to the bow to starboard.

The wreck attracts a great deal of fish. It is famed for the arrival of triggerfish during late summer, seemingly unphased by divers and not normally seen on other sites in Dorset. Throughout the year, ballan and corkwing wrasse can be found sheltering inside the wreck; these are joined by schools of bib and pollack as the water warms.

The Nor, a schooner-rigged steamer, was wrecked in thick fog on 18 January 1887. Today, a tour of the Nor’s propeller and boiler provides an alternative end to a dive on the Royal Adelaide.

Leaving the Adelaide, work your way back up to 7m and allow yourself to drift with the southerly flowing current. A few minutes of gentle finning should be rewarded with the impressive sight of the Nor’s propeller. Two of the blades stand defiantly in the current. The short exposed section of the prop shaft points towards the boiler. Follow this heading down to about 11m. Plating and other traces of wreckage appear; then finally the boiler itself, standing on end, looms into view.



Need to know
Directions
From the Weymouth side, cross the causeway passing the Ferrybridge Inn on your right. Take the next turning right, signposted to the Chesil visitors’ centre and car park.

Tidal and weather considerations
The current runs parallel to the shore. To reach the Royal Adelaide site first – followed by the Nor – dive either in slack or with a southerly current. Underwater, an undertow makes ascending across the current hard work. Diving should not be attempted in more than a southerly through to a westerly force three to which the beach is exposed, or where the breaking waves are more than a metre high. Even in light winds, the entry and exit can be emotional. That said, the beach is protected from winds from the north through to the east.

Equipment considerations
As the exit and walk back in particular can be strenuous, carry the minimum equipment necessary. However, a torch is useful for exploring the wreckage and an SMB will help shore cover to monitor you if you plan a drift dive. Be wary of fishing line and carry a knife. A rope is useful for the shore cover to have ready to assist divers out of the water.

Parking
The large car park is pay and display. For the Adelaide site, park close to the visitors’ centre. The centre and toilets are open all year around. There is also a café, but be aware that opening times during the winter months are limited.

Air fills/local dive centre
Fathom and Blues operates from the Ferrybridge Inn close by at the northern end of the causeway. As well as air and nitrox, the centre serves hot and cold food and gives a warm welcome to visiting divers. Additional dive shops can be found in Castletown.

Fathom and Blues
01305 766220 www.fathomandblues.co.uk

Clubs
For a list of local BSAC branches, see www.bsac.com.