Insider's wreck guide: SS Thistlegorm

In April 2010, the SS Thistlegorm will be 70-years-old – still a relative youngster compared to some of its Red Sea counterparts, such as SS Dunraven aged 133, the Carnatic aged 147 and the Numidia, which turned 108 this year.

Diving the Thistlegorm remains a unique Red Sea experience. For some, the bow is the big attraction as it sits upright pointing out into the blue as if it were still in business. The stern is also high on the must-see list for new visitors. It is here that you can witness greater detail and a well-preserved area of the wreck. 

Many divers ask what is the best route to follow to get the best of the Thistlegorm. But sometimes the answer simply is,  ‘your own’. The allure of this great wreck will often beckon you in many different directions and perhaps you may wish to venture where your curiosity takes you. 

Others, not wishing to miss a good thing, prefer the guide’s choice. However, if you do your homework in advance and read up on the wreck then you’ll arrive armed with a list of all the top attractions. 

The Thistlegorm can be divided into three areas. The outside perimeter of the ship has recently thrown up a few interesting items of wreckage such as previously unseen sections of railway engines, masts and decking - a bit ‘off-piste’ and not for the novice because of current and depths.

The external structure of Thistlegorm is easy to navigate. It is both a dive in itself and also a nice stop after visiting the deeper or more enclosed parts of the wreck. Thistlegorm is 126m long and while it can be covered in one dive, currents and air consumption may clip a diver’s wings on days with challenging conditions. Over two dives, I often find that I can cover the stern area and the upper decks from bow to mid section. The ‘trolley dash’ method may leave you disappointed (and breathless), as it’s unlikely you’ll get everything in. There are other ways to re-create the underwater supermarket experience by circumnavigating the wreck at 30m searching for dropped items of diving equipment or ‘shopping’ as some of the local dive guides call it.

By far the most interesting and spectacular area of Thistlegorm is inside among the cargo holds. It is here where hundreds of tonnes of Second World War armaments and supplies are stored and still highly visible after 68 years underwater. Well protected from the outside conditions, much of the cargo represents a time trap or underwater museum. What can a diver see? Trucks, cars, rifles, Wellington boots, live shells, motorbikes, aircraft parts and much more. Rising up from the holds involves ascending from around 24m to about 20m where you can swim around the deck. Towards the bow decks are located four railway tenders still bolted to the floor. A visit to the bow is a must. Here you will get the ‘big ship feel’ where 4,998 tonnes all converge into one small triangular shaped point. At 14m you can use it as a ‘deep stop’.

It’s not always possible or advisable to swim over the wreck at 6m as the currents and visibility rarely permit it. A short swim at around 9m or 12m, however, often provides a satellite view of the ship before the inevitable calling of the mooring line.
Consider also using a twin-set. Advanced nitrox or decompression divers often enjoy longer bottom times and extensive multi-level diving on the Thistlegorm. They frequently enjoy dives that are three times longer than a recreational diver and still surface with ample gas in reserve.

However long your dive may be, a visit to Thistlegorm is still a special treat. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

by John Kean
First published in BLUE magazine, October 2009