Micronesia

Lying in the west of the Pacific Ocean, Micronesia has something for everyone – reefs in Palau, wrecks in Chuuk and mantas in Yap.

Although only half an hour flight away from Guam, Yap is a different world. Ancient culture, social values and traditions prevail. Yapese men wear the traditional bright loin cloths, and the women grass skirts.

This 118sqkm state is composed of four main islands (known as Wa’ab) plus 15 outer islands (known as Remetau). The outer islands are all atolls, except for one, and stretch more than 1000km east towards Chuuk. With the exception of a few tourist hotels and diving operations, life goes on much as it has done for the last 100 years.

US dollars are now an acceptable currency, but Yap’s traditional stone money is still used.

The divingYap is supported by four diving operations. Beyond the Reef, Nature’s Way, ORC and Yap Divers, which is run by the legendary Bill Acker – the man who almost single-handedly brought worldwide fame to the mantas of Yap. While the Japanese mainly patronise ORC and stay at Village View Resort, most divers dive with Yap Divers or Beyond the Reef – they are all on the main island of Yap. These world-class operations typically offer two or three dives a day with lunch, cakes, hot tea and drinks included in the package. Ancillary facilities include a photographic shop, underwater camera rental, same-day E6-processing, photo instruction and video with editing facilities.

Tourists are attracted to Yap for its wonderful culture, but they mostly come for its spectacular diving opportunities, including what is probably one of the most unique in the world – meeting giant manta rays face to face. Elsewhere, sightings of mantas are infrequent, and it is even rarer to swim with them, but in Yap manta rays can be observed up close every day of the year. They mainly congregate at cleaning stations such as Manta Ridge and Car Wash, found along the Goofnuw and Miil Channels.

Morning is the best time for mantas. When several patiently wait in to have parasites removed from their undersides by small wrasse and butterflyfish. It is always a captivating experience to see such majestic and gentle creatures hovering almost motionless as they are manicured by their reef associates. On one memorable dive I saw 12 of these magnificent animals, each measuring about 4m from wing tip to wing tip, all swooping and turning like a squadron of stealth bombers in flight.

When to go
Diving in Yap is available throughout the year but the best time to visit is between December and April. You can expect to see mantas in Miil Channel in December and from January to March when they are mating. In May the mantas migrate to Goofnuw Channel and in November they move back to Miil Channel. Visibility in the lagoon and channels averages about 15m, but visibility of 30m can be occasionally be had on the outer reef wall.

Top dives
Goofnuw Channel: Valley of the Rays
Goofnuw Channel is the place for mantas and is a 25-minute boat journey from the Manta Ray Bay Hotel. Between the channel and inner lagoon area, there are three cleaning stations. ‘Merry Go Round’, near the end of the channel, is dominated by lettuce corals. Visibility is poor, but the mantas are often seen soaring in endless circles around the lettuce outcrop. ‘Car Wash’ and ‘Manta Rock’ are coral pinnacles that rise to about 10m from the surface. Large numbers of mantas congregate around the outgoing tide. These rocks provide ideal shelter from tidal current, which may run to about 4 knots. The staghorn corals on the reef slope are prolific and pristine, and white-tip sharks, octopus and turtles are also local denizens. Morning dives are best between May and November.

Miil Channel Manta Cleaning Stations
An alternative manta site is Miil Channel, and the journey from the Manta Ray Bay Hotel takes about 45 minutes, so two or three tanks are recommended. Manta Ridge is 9m across in the middle of the channel, an ideal place for mantas to feed and be cleaned at the same time. Over the ridge there is a large coral outcrop, which is a favourite hangout for up to 30 mantas.

O’Keefe’s Island
This relatively newly discovered snorkel area and muck dive site is five minutes from Manta Ray Bay Hotel. Gobies and seahorses are often found, but the attraction is the density of mandarinfish. These dragonets have made Yap the macro capital of Micronesia.

READERS VERDICT
Alan Evans
Experienced Diver & Photographer

‘Sitting on the bottom of the sandy sea bed, watching the manta rays gliding above, was the highlight for me but the mandarinfish are fascinating too. We went in June, which isn’t really the best time to go because the mantas aren’t mating then, but the colour, visibility and marine life were still good even at that time of year. I’d say my favourite dive in Yap was a dusk dive at O’Keefe’s Island, as this is the time when all the mandarinfish come out and mate. The cleaning stations in the Miil Channel also stand out because of all the mantas, but obviously you’re not guaranteed to see them and you’ve got to be lucky.’

Protected by one of the longest barrier reefs in the world (225km-long), Chuuk remains the most unexplored member of the Federated States of Micronesia – the only tourists are wreck divers.
The State of Chuuk (known as Truk until 1990) is 1,000km southeast of Guam and comprises 11 mangrove-fringed volcanic islands in a sapphire-blue lagoon and a series of 14 outlying atolls and low islands.

Topside Chuuk is worthy of exploration and to do so a local guide is essential. Lush, tropical vegetation is characteristic of the islands and memorabilia of the Second World War is scattered among scenic hills and ridges. The quaint Sapuk lighthouse constructed atop a hill commands a panoramic view of the strategic northeast channel. Amid its subway-fashion graffiti-clad wall, bullet holes from machine guns are a reminder of an island under siege more than 50 years ago.

Chuuk is legendary for the quality of its wreck diving. This maritime graveyard is a legacy of the US aerial assault, ‘Operation Hailstorm’. Between 17 and 18 February 1944, aircraft from nine carriers unleashed wave after wave of bombs and torpedoes, day and night. The Japanese lost 260 planes, nearly 60 vessels and thousands of troops, compared to the US loss of a mere 26 aircraft. The 180,000 tonnes of Japanese warships sunk in just two days was unprecedented.

Chuuk has since become a magnet for wreck divers. The combination of warm water and tidal currents serving as a natural incubator, has transformed these lifeless hulks of war into magnificent artificial reefs.

The diving
The variety of wrecks within the range of recreational divers is impressive: submarines, Japanese Zeros, Betty bombers, destroyers and submarine tenders can all be dived. Like good wine, the wrecks improve with age. Guns now wear garlands of sponges, tunicates and hydroids, exploding with kaleidoscopic soft corals. Water temperature is a constant 27ºC all year round, but repeated diving will warrant a 3mm neoprene suit, which will also serve as protection against the huge population of jellyfish that live in the lagoon.

There is very little current and, though there are some shallow wrecks, the average depth range is between 20–35m. A diving computer and torch are essential pieces of equipment.

The Blue Lagoon Resort and Truk Stop are obvious places for divers to stay. Both are situated next to the water and are in close proximity to all the diveable wrecks.

The Truk Aggressor, the Truk Odyssey and the Thorfinn liveaboards all operate within the Chuuk lagoon. These boats cater for hardcore divers who want to dive four or five times a day, and offer superb diving.

When to go
Diving in Chuuk is available all year round, but it’s usually best to avoid the rainy season from July to October. You should find visibility is generally about 25m around the shallow wrecks and 30m-plus at the deeper wrecks.

Top dives
Fujikawa Maru
This 132m-long freighter is one of Chuuk’s signature dives. There is lush coral growth on derricks and the mast, which looms towards the sky. A cargo of fighter planes, as well as bow and stern guns are still in place.
Depth: 9m to stack, 18m to deck and 34m to bottom.

Shinkoku Maru
This makes a stunning dive. The Japanese freighter is covered with a variety of soft corals from end to end. The bow guns are very impressive and the end sections are overwhelmed with long whip corals, millions of glass and cardinalfish. Do not miss this wreck.
Depth: 12m to bow gun and top of bridge, 38m to propeller.

Sankisan Maru
This freighter has a beautiful foremast. It is completely encrusted with hard corals, droopy soft corals, sponges, and swarming with blennies, hawkfish and enigmatic blue wrasse. The front section is remarkably well preserved but little remains from bridge to stern, which was completely blown away on the first day of the raid. This is an ideal wreck for the second or third dive of the day. Depth: 3m to crosstree of foremast, 15m to deck and 24m to bottom of bow.

Fumitzuki
A superb battleship, this 103m-long destroyer once had a cruising speed of 37 knots. Guns and torpedo launchers are still in place and marine growth on the davits is prolific. Gas masks, china and bullets can all be seen on the gun platform.
Depth: 38m to bottom, 30m to superstructure.

Yamagiri Maru
Now lying on its port side, this 220m-long freighter was an ammunition ship for Japan’s battleship Musahi and the biggest shells (46cm) ever used in the Pacific war are found on this wreck. The propeller is surrounded by droopy yellow and purple marshmallow soft corals and millions of glassfish swarm between the blades. Since the vessel is lying on port side, the view to the sky from beneath is almost surreal.
Depth: 15m to starboard beam, 34m to bottom.

Nippo Maru
Those interested in military artefacts and armaments will particularly enjoy this dive. Three artillery guns and tanks sit on the main deck, all pointing to the sky. There are also plenty of guns, trucks, radio equipment, and hemispherical beach mines, acid bottles and shells to look at. The huge density of jellyfish around the wreck is also fascinating. The freighter rests upright with a considerable list to port. Sunk in the first hour of the invasion, this wreck sits in deeper water and is for experienced divers.
Depth: 24m to bridge, 35m to deck and 38m to hold.

San Francisco Maru
One of the most photographed wrecks in the lagoon, the three tanks on the deck against the bridge of this freighter are hauntingly photogenic. The forward hold is full of mines and there are vehicles in the cargo area.
Depth: 45m to deck, 52m to stern and 58m to forward hold.

Recompression
A privately-owned recompression chamber operated by Bruton Enterprises is located in Neauo Village, Weno.

READERS VERDICT
Dan Croci
Experienced Diver

‘We combined Bikini and Chuuk on one trip and totally focused on the wrecks. There was much more marine life around the wrecks in Chuuk – lots of hard and soft corals, all the usual fish life, plus grey reef and white-tip sharks. The Japanese freighter Fujikawa Maru stood out in particular – we went into the engine room and also did a night dive – it was absolutely beautiful. It’s covered in soft corals and when you shine your torch, all the natural colours stand out all the more. We were on a liveaboard so we did four or five dives every day and never got bored – there was always something different to see. But it was the wartime wrecks that did it for me. They were astounding… amazing.’

Sitting on the western edge of Micronesia, Palau is comprised of six clusters of islands, which seem set adrift in the outermost corner of the Pacific. Strewn diagonally, northeast to southwest, Palau has five principal islands, namely Babeldaob (or Ochalchutem), the capital Koror, Peliliu, Angaur, Kayangel and at least 200 small islands known as the Rock Islands. Of the 343 islands in the archipelago, only nine are inhabited. In terms of natural beauty, flora and fauna, Palau is the jewel in Micronesia’s impressive crown.

The splendour of Palau lies mainly beneath the waves. Its vast lagoon is sheltered by a 105km-long barrier reef hosting more than 1,500 species of fish and large numbers of diverse corals. Reef flats plummet quickly to depths beyond 2,000m.

Blue holes, huge caverns and immense growths of sessile life are easily accessible in clear water with visibility averaging an incredible 40m. Vast numbers of sharks, mantas, eagle rays, turtles, dolphins and migratory pelagics convene at a unique crossroad of the world’s three major ocean currents. Land-locked marine lakes, linked to the sea through narrow channels, are breeding grounds for sharks, jellyfish, crocodiles and rare critters. A short hike through tropical rainforest leads to marine lakes, home to millions of stingless jellyfish. There are five such lakes in the central Rock Islands, but Mecherchar Island is perhaps the most famous. Submerged caves with hauntingly beautiful, multiple chambers are also easily reached. On Babeldaob unpaved roads lead to tall waterfalls and mountains where mysterious monoliths guard the secrets of a lost civilisation.

The diving
Generally, day trips start at about 9am. Divers are picked up from their respective hotels in Koror and the itinerary includes double boat dives on the outer reefs of Ngemelis, Angaur or Peleliu. Lunch and drinks are supplied with the day package. Operators usually provide a complimentary hotel bus transfer service to all guests staying in Koror, including dockside pick-up for those staying at the Palau Pan Pacific or Marinar hotels, where the majority of divers stay. A 45–75 minute boat ride precedes the first dive and between dives your guide might take you for a snorkel at Jellyfish Lake, Soft Coral Arch, Giant Clam City, or one of Palau’s many secluded marine lakes within the Rock Islands, before returning to base at about 4pm. Since most of Palau’s premier sites are more than a 45-minute boat ride from Koror, a liveaboard is the obvious choice for serious divers.

The best of Palau’s dives are done along the outer reefs of Ngemelis, Angaur and Peleliu. Along these reefs are Palau’s legendary wall dives. They are some of the most exciting and prolific in the world. Sea fans and soft corals grow to immense proportion and the fish life is electrifying. The marine diversity is impressive and the terrain astounding. Multi-level blue holes, submerged caves and steep walls plummet quickly to abyssal depths.

Because tidal changes in Palau are often more than 2m, current is also immense and swift. Drift diving is the norm, divers should stick close to the reef and a good guide is essential. Down-currents are also common on the outer walls, and a surface marker buoy should be an integral piece of kit.

Over-shadowed by the area’s marvellous coral reefs, the wrecks of Palau’s huge lagoon have evaded the limelight. The lagoon is the final resting place for a fleet of Japanese military ships, the aftermath of a fierce battle during the Second World War. More than 50 ships and many more planes are believed to have sunk in the lagoon. Though a few have been documented, many still await discovery.

WHEN TO GO
Palau is diveable all year round, but the best time to visit is between January and April. Highlights include the shark-mating season from February to May, and the moorish idol migration in March. Grouper spawn in May and June and the rainy season is between July and October. Visibility in Palau averages 30m in the dry season, falling to 15m during the rainy months. The air temperature is 27ºC, and water temperature is just as warm throughout the year.

TOP DIVES
Blue Corner
Situated off the edge of Ngemelis Island, this dive offers abundant shark action. The site teems with large schools of Moorish idols, as well as Napoleon wrasse, grouper, barracuda, white-tip sharks, turtles, moray eels, jacks, mantas and huge marble rays. When the current is running, the action seems endless.

The Blue Holes
There are a number of blue holes in Micronesia, but the best site is this group of four holes located along the southwestern barrier reef, just west of Ngemelis Island and not far from Blue Corner. Entering either one of these chimneys is a spiritual experience. As you descend into this cathedral-shaped chamber, light diffuses through a spectrum of turquoise blue to sapphire and dissolves into darkness.

Chandelier Caves
One of the most unique underwater terrains in the world, this cave system of four inter-connecting chambers is beneath one of the Rock Islands, almost directly across from Sam’s Dive Tour on Koror. The entrance is about 8m below the surface and the short tunnel opens up to a huge chamber with exceptional visibility and a ceiling of stalactites.

Pelelui Tip
This is the convergent point of currents from all sides of the archipelago. On one side is the Philippine Sea and the other is the Pacific. Since the currents bring huge volumes of rich nutrients, the walls of Pelelui are some of the most dynamic in the world. This is big-fish country – tiger sharks, oceanic white-tips and blue marlin are all frequent visitors.

Recompression
Palau has a modern recompression chamber staffed by certified operators at the national hospital on Ngerekebesang Island. The hospital emergency number is 00 680 488 2558.

READERS VERDICT
Bernard Coleman
Experienced Diver

‘I first went to Palau five years ago and I’m about to go back for the sixth time. I generally spend the first week at the Palau Pan Pacific resort in Koror, diving the local reefs while my wife snorkels, then spend the second week on a liveaboard. There are three really splendid sites I’ll never forget: Blue Corner and The Blue Holes are two spots close together, where the tidal stream starts and the current gets very strong. You just hook on and watch everything go past – white-tips and grey reef sharks mainly. I’ve also seen a few manta rays in Palau. My other favourite dive is the procession of four stalactite caves they call the Chandelier Caves. They’re not very deep but they are absolutely beautiful.’