Palau, Micronesia

Photo: MA

Sitting on the western edge of Micronesia, Palau is comprised of six clusters of islands, which seem set adrift in the outermost corner of the Pacific. Strewn diagonally, northeast to southwest, Palau has five principal islands, namely Babeldaob (or Ochalchutem), the capital Koror, Peliliu, Angaur, Kayangel and at least 200 small islands known as the Rock Islands. Of the 343 islands in the archipelago, only nine are inhabited. In terms of natural beauty, flora and fauna, Palau is the jewel in Micronesia's impressive crown.

The splendour of Palau lies mainly beneath the waves. Its vast lagoon is sheltered by a 105km-long barrier reef hosting more than 1,500 species of fish and large numbers of diverse corals. Reef flats plummet quickly to depths beyond 2,000m.

Blue holes, huge caverns and immense growths of sessile life are easily accessible in clear water with visibility averaging an incredible 40m. Vast numbers of sharks, mantas, eagle rays, turtles, dolphins and migratory pelagics convene at a unique crossroad of the world's three major ocean currents. Land-locked marine lakes, linked to the sea through narrow channels, are breeding grounds for sharks, jellyfish, crocodiles and rare critters. A short hike through tropical rainforest leads to marine lakes, home to millions of stingless jellyfish. There are five such lakes in the central Rock Islands, but Mecherchar Island is perhaps the most famous. Submerged caves with hauntingly beautiful, multiple chambers are also easily reached. On Babeldaob unpaved roads lead to tall waterfalls and mountains where mysterious monoliths guard the secrets of a lost civilisation.

The diving

Generally, day trips start at about 9am. Divers are picked up from their respective hotels in Koror and the itinerary includes double boat dives on the outer reefs of Ngemelis, Angaur or Peleliu. Lunch and drinks are supplied with the day package. Operators usually provide a complimentary hotel bus transfer service to all guests staying in Koror, including dockside pick-up for those staying at the Palau Pan Pacific or Marinar hotels, where the majority of divers stay. A 45-75 minute boat ride precedes the first dive and between dives your guide might take you for a snorkel at Jellyfish Lake, Soft Coral Arch, Giant Clam City, or one of Palau's many secluded marine lakes within the Rock Islands, before returning to base at about 4pm. Since most of Palau's premier sites are more than a 45-minute boat ride from Koror, a liveaboard is the obvious choice for serious divers.

The best of Palau's dives are done along the outer reefs of Ngemelis, Angaur and Peleliu. Along these reefs are Palau's legendary wall dives. They are some of the most exciting and prolific in the world. Sea fans and soft corals grow to immense proportion and the fish life is electrifying. The marine diversity is impressive and the terrain astounding. Multi-level blue holes, submerged caves and steep walls plummet quickly to abyssal depths.

Because tidal changes in Palau are often more than 2m, current is also immense and swift. Drift diving is the norm, divers should stick close to the reef and a good guide is essential. Down-currents are also common on the outer walls, and a surface marker buoy should be an integral piece of kit.

Over-shadowed by the area's marvellous coral reefs, the wrecks of Palau's huge lagoon have evaded the limelight. The lagoon is the final resting place for a fleet of Japanese military ships, the aftermath of a fierce battle during the Second World War. More than 50 ships and many more planes are believed to have sunk in the lagoon. Though a few have been documented, many still await discovery.

WHEN TO GO

Palau is diveable all year round, but the best time to visit is between January and April. Highlights include the shark-mating season from February to May, and the moorish idol migration in March. Grouper spawn in May and June and the rainy season is between July and October. Visibility in Palau averages 30m in the dry season, falling to 15m during the rainy months. The air temperature is 27ºC, and water temperature is just as warm throughout the year.

TOP DIVES

Blue Corner Situated off the edge of Ngemelis Island, this dive offers abundant shark action. The site teems with large schools of Moorish idols, as well as Napoleon wrasse, grouper, barracuda, white-tip sharks, turtles, moray eels, jacks, mantas and huge marble rays. When the current is running, the action seems endless.

The Blue Holes

There are a number of blue holes in Micronesia, but the best site is this group of four holes located along the southwestern barrier reef, just west of Ngemelis Island and not far from Blue Corner. Entering either one of these chimneys is a spiritual experience. As you descend into this cathedral-shaped chamber, light diffuses through a spectrum of turquoise blue to sapphire and dissolves into darkness.

Chandelier Caves

One of the most unique underwater terrains in the world, this cave system of four inter-connecting chambers is beneath one of the Rock Islands, almost directly across from Sam's Dive Tour on Koror. The entrance is about 8m below the surface and the short tunnel opens up to a huge chamber with exceptional visibility and a ceiling of stalactites.

Pelelui Tip

This is the convergent point of currents from all sides of the archipelago. On one side is the Philippine Sea and the other is the Pacific. Since the currents bring huge volumes of rich nutrients, the walls of Pelelui are some of the most dynamic in the world. This is big-fish country - tiger sharks, oceanic white-tips and blue marlin are all frequent visitors.

Recompression

Palau has a modern recompression chamber staffed by certified operators at the national hospital on Ngerekebesang Island. The hospital emergency number is 00 680 488 2558.