Papua New Guinea

Photo: Douglas David Seifert Photo: DDS Photo: DDS Photo: DDS Photo: DDS Photo: DDS Photo: DDS Photo: DDS

A decade ago, the reefs of Papua New Guinea (connoisseurs call it PNG) were being touted as ‘the world’s best diving’. Since then, diving in the western Pacific and Southeast Asia has broadened, with divers venturing to the biologically rich Rajah Empat region off West Papua; the far reaches of Indonesia’s Nusa Tengarra archipelago; the growth of macro diving in Bali and the Lembeh Straits. PNG, expensive and remote, has been put rather in the shade by these fashionable destinations.

Still, for those in the know, PNG remains a monarch among dive destinations – its allure is only added to by its remoteness and the exoticism of the lowland and hill tribes. For divers, it has probably the greatest range of warm-water environments, from fringing reefs and pinnacles to sharks, muck dives and Second World War wrecks. It doesn’t quite rival the Galápagos for big-animal action, but it has far richer coral, more variety on the reef and great wreck dives.

The question is where to go. PNG is a huge country, and there are around a dozen diving areas to choose from. For a first visit, though, the best regions to choose from are Kavieng and Milne Bay, both on the Island of New Britain. The seas around Kavieng have a good smattering of established and recent wrecks, as well as some good generalist reefs, but the specialties here are high-energy passages where jacks, batfish, barracuda and grey reef sharks swirl in a current-blasted ballet. There are also a few sites where silvertip sharks can be found.

Milne Bay is one of the best-dived areas of PNG, but new sites are still opening up every year. As with Kavieng, most of the diving takes place from liveaboards, although there are shore-based operations in the area. There is an argument that this region has the most diverse diving in all the Tropics – there are wrecks of yachts and fighter planes, acres of pristine coral, a manta cleaning station, and muck dives with colourful little animals. Ultimately, we believe that PNG qualifies for holiday-of-a-lifetime status because the top-notch diving is complemented by the wonderful exoticism of the location and the availability of excellent liveaboards.

Weather

Dress for the Tropics and expect water temperatures of 28ºC and above. You can dive PNG all year round, but the months to avoid are July and August, when trade winds from the south make for choppy conditions. The rainy season is from mid-December to March – during which time underwater visibility can vary – but the rains themselves are only sporadic and should not dissuade you from visiting if you are unable to travel at other times.

Key Dives

Albatross Passage
A narrow passage between two islands, this high-energy site attracts pelagics such as tuna, jacks, eagle rays and mantas.

Japanese fighter
Off New Britain, this perfectly preserved wreck sits upright at 15m with the propeller still in place. This is the perfect aeroplane wreck.

Deacon’s Reef
A series of coral towers in Milne Bay, and the most beautiful fan coral forest in the world.

Book it!

Scuba Safaris is offering seven nights at the Walindi Plantation Resort for £1,995 per person including flights, transfers, and 12 dives (beach bungalows are an additional £235). An upgrade to club class costs an additional £1,500 (depending on time of year).

Tour Operators

Divequest
01254 826322
www.divequest.co.uk


Dive Tours
01244 401177
www.divetours.co.uk


Peter Hughes
Email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
www.peterhughes.com


Scuba Safaris
01342 851196
www.scuba-safaris.com


Worldwide Scuba Tours
01449 780220
www.scubascuba.com