INDepth - Thailand

Harlequin Shrimps Scenery at Krabi Beach at Krabi Similan Islands by Franco Banfi Collared butterflyfish Leopard Shark Frogfish Blenny Diver spots a frogfish Typical Thai reef Longnose hawkfish Manta Ray Porcelain crab Map

THAILAND: WEST SIDE

Lying within the heart of Southeast Asia, Thailand has matured as a holiday destination over the past few decades. Although the country’s well-developed tourist infrastructure has taken much of the adventurous element out of exploration here, Thailand remains a must-stop on the region’s travelling trail, and for good reason. Its year-round tropical sunshine, tranquil beaches, dramatic mountains, warm waters and fascinating culture, lure a mass of travellers – up to five million – from all parts of the globe each year.

Thailand stretches 1,700 miles from north to south, covering a total landmass of around 202,000 square miles. The country is often referred to in terms of its four regions: the mountains and forests of the north; the vast rice fields of the central plains; the farm lands of the northeast plateau; and the tropical islands and long coastline of the south.

The southern part of Thailand caters as much for the underwater visitor as it does for its many topside tourists. The country has one of the largest concentrations of dive operators in the Asia-Pacific region, and, as a result, diving is highly accessible. The ever-decreasing price of flights, combined with the cheap cost of living here, also means that in terms of budget Thailand can compete with places such as Europe and the Red Sea.

In diving terms, Thailand is split between two seas: the shallow waters of the Gulf of Thailand to the east and the deep, current-abundant, nutrient-rich waters of the Andaman Sea to the west. While the sites on both sides of the country share common marine species, the underwater topography on each side is distinct. The Gulf of Thailand offers much for the travelling diver, but for this INdepth guide our visit takes us to the west coast for a look at the Andaman Sea.

Part of the Indian Ocean, the Andaman Sea extends from Burma to Thailand’s north to beyond the Malaysian border in the south. Extensive fringing coral reefs, deep drop-offs, wrecks, caves and life-encrusted pinnacles offer variety. But what really pulls the attention of divers to the west-coast waters is the promise of current-abundant action, big-animal encounters, macro-life heaven and (as a general rule) good visibility.

GETTING THERE

Most flights from the UK to Thailand are direct to Bangkok, which is around 12 hours in the air from London. Bangkok is roughly eight hours by car from the west coast diving capital of Phuket. However, there are regular internal flights from Bangkok to both Phuket and Krabi (a flight time of about an hour to both) which can easily be arranged by your tour operator on booking.

KOH PHUKET

By far the highest concentration of divers on the west coast can be found on the island of Phuket, which acts as the main gateway for liveaboards heading to the nearby Similan Islands and further north to Burmese waters.

The largest of all islands in Thailand (covering an area roughly the same size as Singapore), Phuket is connected to the rest of the country by a bridge at its northernmost tip. Despite the island having been being badly hit by the 2004 tsunami, any signs of destruction have, as with most of the west coast, been erased by a mass effort to rebuild resorts over the past few years.

The main diving areas, such as Chalong Bay, are in the southeastern part of the island. There are plenty of good accommodation options on offer here geared towards the diver. One of the best of these is run by dive operator Sea Bees at the Palm Garden Resort. North of Chalong’s beach, is Patong, however, it is better known for a seedier side of Thai tourism, with lots of ‘go-go bars’ and massage parlours. It’s best to avoid wandering around these areas on your own at night. By day, however, there’s lots of good shopping around Patong, at its markets and nearby malls.

Below the water, Phuket’s wreck and reefs sites offer divers plenty of variety, although it has to be said that run-off pollution from shore has had an effect on marine life populations and visibility. The best diving in this area is further from shore and accessed daily on good-quality dayboats. The majority of day trips leave from Chalong, taking between two and three hours to reach the best sites.

ANEMONE REEF

This rocky plateau is 30km east of Chalong Bay at a depth of between 4 and 26m. Coated in a mass of sea anemones, there are plenty of clownfish guarding their habitat here, as well as porcelain crabs and shrimps. A multitude of macro life can be found resting among the healthy and abundant soft coral and sea fans.

SHARK POINT

A general rule in diving is that if a site is named after a marine creature, it is highly unlikely you will actually see the animal in question. Shark Point, however, is an exception to the rule, as zebra sharks (commonly known in Thailand as leopard sharks) can often be found resting on the sandy areas around the reef or freely swimming around its three pinnacles. These pinnacles, with a maximum depth of 24m, are encrusted with life, such as grouper, lobsters and moray eels. Pelagics such as barracuda, jacks and snapper often cruise by.

KOH RACHA NOI

A site for experienced divers only, because of the strong currents that run through here, Koh Racha Noi is well known for the large bullethead parrotfish that reside around its soft and hard coral-covered pinnacles and rocks. Small reef sharks also patrol the reef.

SIMILAN ISLANDS

The Similan Islands National Marine Park is home to some of the country’s healthiest and most diverse reefs. Approximately 100km northwest of Phuket, the Similans are made up of nine granite islands, which look as if they have been lifted from a postcard picture. The islands are numbered from one to nine, from south to north. From rich fringing reefs, to huge boulder formations and sandy bottoms scattered with coral bommies home to a mass of marine life, the Similans offer variety and excitement. This is also one of the best areas in the world for spotting whale sharks and manta rays. Liveaboard trips range from two to nine-day trips. There are lots of operators offering trips, however, many of the cheaper liveaboards can be packed with divers. When booking, make sure you check the maximum number of divers the boat will take, what sites are covered and whether there are any hidden costs.

KOH BON

This rugged island lies close to the Similan Islands, but unlike its granite neighbours is formed of limestone. Koh Bon is a must-dive, which can be visited by dayboat or as part of a Similan Island liveaboard itinerary. A multi-level dive, the best section of the site is a narrow, rocky ridge that drops to 40m. This is made up of a series of walls, which at around 25m form giant rocky steps encrusted with colourful corals, sponges, sea fans and anemones. Leopard sharks can often be found resting around a sandy area here at 35m. Divers regularly encounter manta rays here. There is also the chance of seeing the odd whale shark. Currents here can be strong, with upcurrents commonplace at its deepest sections.

RICHELIEU ROCK

One of the areas most celebrated dive sites, Richelieu Rock has become a target for those in search of whale shark encounters. This exposed rock is situated 14km east of Koh Surin and acts as a magnet for passing pelagics, such as rainbow runners, tuna and whale sharks. It is worth noting, however, that encounters with the world’s largest fish here are far from guaranteed. The site is formed of one large pinnacle and several smaller ones which drop to a maximum depth of 45m. Turn your gaze from the pelagics in the blue and you will find a huge diversity of marine life and coral growth. As well as bannerfish, snappers, lionfish and Titan triggerfish, you are also likely to see scorpionfish, seahorses, shrimps and crabs. In the deeper sections there is a mass congregation of gorgonian sea fans.

EAST OF EDEN

A favourite among many dive guides in this area, East of Eden is a southeastern fringing reef at island Number Seven. Soft corals blanket the shallow parts of this sloping reef up to a depth of around 12m and it is common spot for zebra sharks and turtles. The highlight is a coral bommie which starts at 9m and descends to 30m. The concentration of coral formations and life here is stunning and should be on every visiting underwater photographer’s wish-list.

BOONSUNG WRECK

Not the most beautiful of sites, as the visibility here is poor and the tin mine dredger wreck has been scattered by the tsunami and is not safe for penetration. Nevertheless, this site is a gem if you are a fan of macro life. Once you pass through the mass gathering of yellow snapper, trevallies, barracuda and batfish, you will find many types of colourful moray eels, crabs and other small creatures hiding in the cracks of the wreck. Lying close to shore, this is a great local dive site from Khao Lak.

KHAO LAK

There are essentially three types of travellers who come to Khao Lak – backpackers, divers, and those wishing to get away from it all at private beach resorts. A quiet and relaxed town scattered with numerous resorts to suit most budgets, Khao Lak offers everything from five-star luxury to backpacker basics. It’s a great place to get away from the crowds of Phuket and still be within easy access of the Similans.

Newly constructed hotel resorts and homes have hidden many of the scars of the 2004 tsunami, however, there are a still a few reminders of the Boxing Day tidal wave in Khao Lak, as this was one of the worst-hit areas. The most notable of these is a stranded police boat, which was forced far inland by the wave and remains stranded in a field. There is also a small tsunami museum in the main part of town, dedicated to the memory of those who lost their lives.

KOH LANTA

If you like to get away from the crowds above and below the water but still want access to good diving, Koh Lanta is an ideal option. Although it is a 70km trek from Krabi, here you will find near-empty white-sand beaches, tropical forests and good-quality, family-friendly resorts. The main resort hotels are situated just off on the 3km-long Klong Dao Beach. Certainly not a destination for all-night party-goers – places here to eat and drink tend to shut before the clock strikes midnight. The Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park, covers an area of about 135sq km. The diving offers variety – walls, fringing reefs, caves and wrecks. Marine life is also abundant, with a good chance of encountering the big stuff, such as whale sharks and manta rays.

HIN DAENG

It takes a good two to three hours to get to this site, as it located just 15km from the Malaysian border, but the lengthy journey has its rewards. This series of wall dives is often described as one of the best dive spots in Thailand. Reaching a maximum depth of 35m, this rich coral reef provides a home to a huge diversity of life, such as zebra sharks, turtles, moray eels and lobsters. This is also one of the few places in Thailand where grey reef sharks are regularly spotted. Manta rays and whale sharks are frequent visitors.

HIN MUOANG

Hin Muoang and the Koh ha yai group of dive sites are the other diving highlights. Hin Muoang (which means ‘purple rock’) is particularly special, as it is an excellent place to spot manta rays, whale sharks, stingrays and large barracuda and tuna. The site, which drops to more than 70m, is named after the mass of purple anemones in its shallows.

KRABI

A traditional stopping place for backpackers, Krabi has some of the west coast’s most famous and popular beaches, including Ko Phi Phi and Ao Nang. The area has steadily attracted a growing number of divers over the years.

There are numerous dive sites around Krabi, such as the shallow Koh See reef, where there is a huge diversity of corals. However, the best dives with the best visibility accessible from Krabi are 50km southwest around the island of Phi Phi. Highlights of Phi Phi’s dive sites include two outcrops, Koh Bida Nai and Nok, which are both blanketed in a mass of soft corals. A good place to spot leopard sharks cruising around the reef or resting on the sandy bottoms.

GETTING AROUND

The mass influx of tourists each year has made travelling around Thailand uncomplicated and relatively trouble-free. There are excellent train links and numerous options to help you hop between places on transport modes to match your budget whatever it may be. Long-distance buses are the cheapest option for travellers. By far the easiest and simplest way to travel from one resort to the next is by plane. While Phuket is the most popular diving area, the southern resort of Krabi also attracts a high number of diving visitors and has its own airport. It is best to arrange transfers to and from the airport in advance with the dive centre or resort.

When in the resort, tuk tuk (three-wheeled scooter) is the most common way to get around for shopping excursions or nights out. It is best to agree a price for your journey with the tuk tuk driver before getting in. Mopeds are a popular mode of transport in Thailand, but the rules of the road here are far from safe, making this a risky option.

THE SEASONS

Diving is best on the west coast between November and April, during the tourist high season when the Andaman Sea is sheltered from the northwest monsoon. February to April is one of the best times to explore the Similan Island dive sites as it’s whale shark and manta ray season and the weather is at its calmest.

TOPSIDE ATTRACTIONS

From elephant trekking and white- water rafting to temple visits and shopping, there’s a massive range of things to do topside in Thailand. The culture and landscape are fascinating, as is the local food. See the Tourism Authority of Thailand website for ideas at www.tourismthailand.org.

WHAT TO PACK

Light summer clothing for the day. Long trousers are recommended in the evening to avoid mosquito bites. High-factor sunscreen is a must, as the sun is particularly strong in Thailand.

It is essential to bring a surface marker buoy (SMB), as the currents here can be strong and unpredictable. Boat traffic can also make surfacing without a marker buoy hazardous. Water temperatures range from 27ºC to 31ºC, so a 3mm full wetsuit is ideal.

DIVE SAYS

Big-animal encounters, diverse and colourful coral formations, a mass of macro life and clear warm waters, make Thailand a great diving holiday choice. And while it doesn’t quite match up to the high underwater action standards set by its neighbours, such as Malaysia and Indonesia, Thailand does compete in terms of budget. Topside, this country is also hard to beat – great for non-diving partners.

SPECIAL THANKS

A huge thank you to Paul Lees, author of the Pocket Guide Dive Thailand, for his help with this feature (www.diveguidethailand.com ). Thanks also to Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org ) Sea Bees (www.sea-bees.com ), Scuba Addicts (www.scuba-addicts.com ) and Lanta Diver (www.lantadiver.com ) for all their assistance.

TOUR OPERATORS

Aquatours
020 8398 0505
www.aquatours.com

Blue O Two
01752 480808
www.blueotwo.com

Dive Tours
01244 401177
www.divetours.co.uk

Explorers
0845 0943382
www.explorers.co.uk

Oonasdivers
01323 648924
www.oonasdivers,com

Regaldive
0870 2201777
www.regal-diving.co.uk

DIVE CENTRES

All 4 Diving (Phuket)
00 66 76 344611
www.all4diving.com

Lanta Divers (Koh Lanta)
00 66 75 684208
www.lantadiver.com

Mermaid Liveaboards (Phuket)
00 66 87 2748348
www.mermaid-liveaboards.com

Philkade Liveaboard diving cruises (Phuket)
00 66 891 952905
www.philkade.com

Sea Bees (Khao Lak and Phuket)
00 66 76 381765
www.sea-bees.com

Sea World Dive Team (Phuket)
00 66 76 341595
www.seaworld-phuket.com

Scuba Addicts (Krabi)
00 66 895 861990
www.scuba-addicts.com

Scuba Cat (BSAC centre)
00 66 76 293120
www.scubacat.com