Komodo Island

So, what’s new?
As little as possible, we hope. Komodo is situated in one of the least developed parts of the Indonesian archipelago, and offers a wealth of barely-explored sites. The obvious tourist draw is the presence of Komodo dragons (large monitor lizards). Diver congestion is not an issue here – there are only a few liveaboards – and the Nusa Tenggara archipelago is just crying out for exploration. It is possible to book a berth on one of the liveaboards that visit the established sites around Komodo.

And how’s the diving?
Wild. The seas west of Flores are studded with tiny islands, pinnacles and outcrops, around which currents rage. Geologically, Komodo and nearby Rinca are part of Flores, which is separated from Sumbawa to the west by the Sape Strait, which drops to 300m. This water wells up and hits the relatively shallow seas to the east, resulting in fast currents at tidal changes. These currents can reach eight knots, which is far too fast for even the most experienced drift divers.

When conditions are suitable, the diving is excellent. This is critter country, so expect to see lots of crustaceans, cuttlefish, frogfish, crocodilefish and the usual macro subjects. Fish stocks are healthy, so you are likely to run into big schools of trevally and other jacks. Komodo’s signature dive is Pantai Merah (literally Red Beach), where two-knot currents are par for the course. This site, just yards from the beach, features a spectacular sloping wall, which is festooned with reef-building corals, gorgonians and sponges. Underwater, the scenery is dominated by a variety of corals. One site, Staghorn Mile, is renowned for its abundance of branched acropora corals.

Visibility can be 40m at the north side of Sebayur, yet 25km away at Komodo, visibility was limited to about 15m during our dives.

Manta rays and whale sharks are frequently seen in the southern part of the Komodo Straits, but the chances of encountering a dragon in the water are so remote as to be negligible.

Accommodation any good?
Nothing to write home about, unless you enjoy regaling your relatives with tales of woe. You can stay on Komodo itself, but we don’t recommend it. Facilities are basic, and the food extremely poor. Also, some of the larger dragons have adopted the unsettling habit of lumbering into the tourist camp. The more civilized option is to book a liveaboard such as the Nusa Tara or Kartika. These are basic vessels, but they are comfortable and have experienced crews.

Tell us about the region...
Komodo is situated in the heart of Indonesia’s Nusa Tenggara archipelago, which stretches from Lombok in the west to Timor in the east. Liveaboards depart from the port of Bima on Sumbawa Island, approximately 70km west of Komodo. The civil unrest that occurred in other parts of Indonesia has not become an issue around the large central islands of Nusa Tenggara, Sumbawa and Flores, which have sparse, agricultural populations.

If you’re thinking about visiting Komodo, it’s worth spending some time on neighbouring Flores, which has volcanoes and a beautiful port at Labuhanbajo. Anti-malarial pills are essential, as are vaccinations against typhoid and tetanus. Rabies jabs are recommended for anyone who plans to spend much time on Flores, where packs of feral dogs have caused problems in the past.

And the verdict is?
There’s no doubt that Komodo is one of diving’s wildest destinations. There‘s an abundance of marine life, a good chance of seeing large pelagics and the side attraction of the dragons. This is real wilderness diving, with little chance of bumping into another group of divers underwater. Of course, all these positives could also be seen as negatives: inexperienced divers may find the currents heavy-going, and the lack of an established tourist infrastructure means that luxuries are thin on the ground. Although Indonesian food is generally tasty, rice and fish is the order of the day in Nusa Tenggara.

How do I find out more?
Explorers Tours is offering 14-day holidays, combining six days of liveaboard diving with stays in Bali and Bima, for £1,459. Contact Explorers on 01753 681999 for further details. It is possible to travel independently to Komodo, booking return flights from London to Bali, and then on to Bima or Flores will cost around £660, according to Trailfinders (020 7938 3939). Scubasnacks have just started operating liveaboards in the Komodo area, phone 020 7821 9797 or see the web site www.scubasnacks.com for more information.