Southern Egypt liveaboards

Liveaboards are offering divers an ever-greater variety of Red Sea experiences. DIVE compares two of the best. By Ciara Korving and Simon Rogerson

So what’s new?
DIVE wanted to explore the differences between the various southern Egyptian options now open to liveaboard fans, so we sent one reporter right to the southern extreme on board the Coral Queen, an established liveaboard familiar to Red Sea divers. This trip encompassed the Fury Shoal and the remote chain of reefs known as St John’s. Our second reporter joined a Brothers Islands charter on board a newer liveaboard, the Suzanna 1. These are both classed as ‘southern’ Egyptian dive trips, but they offer very different experiences.

Islands or ‘deep south’?
There are similarities and differences. Egypt’s offshore dive sites – notably Elphinstone, the Brothers, Daedalus and Rocky Islet – are defined by big walls which drop off into deep water. The coral walls are typically covered in a variety of soft corals, sponges and the gorgonian fan corals. These sites act as service stations for pelagics which come here to feed and be cleaned.

At the sites around Fury Shoal, hard coral thrives on the protected sites, while pelagics can be sighted on the more exposed sites such as Sataya (Dolphin Reef). Although there are some impressive walls here, the real thrill is to explore the complex and pristine hard-coral environment, with its overhangs, caves and natural architecture.

And how’s the diving?
The ‘deep south’ charter on the Coral Queen departed from the desert camp, Marsa Wadi Lahami, site of a picturesque desert camp and one of the southernmost embarkation points for liveaboards. From here, we visited Abu Galawa Big, a pretty reef with the wreck of the tugboat Tiensten lying in relatively shallow water. Another great site within the Shoal was the Malahi, a cluster of hard corals surrounding a larger habili (submerged reef block), with caves and ledges ideal for seeing white-tip reef sharks. Our favourite site was the more exposed Dolphin Reef, where brisk currents brought in a school of hammerhead sharks.

Meanwhile, our reporter on the Brothers Islands charter was prevented from making the six-hour crossing to the islands due to high winds. Fortunately, there was sufficient good-quality diving around Safaga and Hurghada to occupy the passengers for a couple of days. Highlights included Panorama Reef and the wreck of the Salem Express.

Back in the deep south, our reporter had reached St John’s Reef. While diving on a site called ‘The Nursery’, we had some rare sightings of the bumphead parrotfish. This coral cruncher is the largest member of the parrotfish family and grows to about the same size as a Napoleon wrasse. But our favourite dive was at St John’s Wood, where two magnificent coral formations led down into a saddle of coral clusters teeming with fusiliers and bannerfish.

Finally, the Brothers trip got a break in the weather and was able to make the crossing in time to give the divers a decent amount of time at the islands. On Big Brother the focus was the two wrecks, Numidia and Aida, which lie around the island’s northern tip. The Numidia was coated in soft corals. Divers were treated to a close look at a manta ray while making their way along the south wall. Silky and grey reef sharks were seen at Little Brother, but they tended to stay below the divers.

Tell me about the liveaboards
The 24m Coral Queen was built in 1996 and has established herself as a good-quality liveaboard. Her owner, Guido Sherif, takes great pride in showing his divers the delights of the Red Sea. This boat provided a template for the wave of Egyptian-built, wooden-hulled liveaboards which dominated the Red Sea from the mid-90s.

Such liveaboard design has reached its apotheosis with the whopping Suzanna 1, which is 34m long and has an 8m beam. She takes a maximum of 20 guests in very comfortable cabins that even come with a well stocked minibar. The divers are organised into three groups, which are ferried to the sites in large Zodiacs. This is a liveaboard for those in search of space and luxury – even though the Suzanna takes a lot of guests, she’s big enough to offer solitude to those who seek it.

Crucially, both vessels have sufficiently powerful engines to cover the distances required by their routes. They both have knowledgeable dive guides and hard-working crews who will cater your every need. Hospitality is an important aspect of Arab culture, and there’s nothing Egyptians like more than an appreciative guest.

Despite the war, there has been no sign of instability at the Red Sea’s resorts. It’s a good time to go and these boats offer great trips at reasonable prices. The Suzanna 1 is probably better suited to those in search of a bit of luxury and space, but the Coral Queen is still a classy operation for those who prefer a smaller liveaboard.

The Suzanna 1 is sold through Tony Backhurst Scuba Travel, tel: 01483 271765, and the Brothers trip is priced at £950 including flights, transfers and park fees. The Coral Queen’s ‘deep south’ trip is priced at £985 and can be booked through Oonasdivers, tel: 01323 648924.