The Farasan Islands, Saudi Arabia

Photo: Philip Walker Photo: Philip Walker Photo: Philip Walker

Those looking to extend their Red Sea diving experience may be intrigued by this little-known diving location. Susan Chenard reports

So, what’s new?
The waters of the Red Sea are treasured worldwide for their natural beauty, unique habitats and an astounding variety of animal and plant communities. Prior to this year, getting permission from the local coastguard authorities to dive the Farasan Islands off the coast of Saudi Arabia was a privilege reserved for special guests of the Saudi royal family or those with what is locally known as ‘wastah’ (good connections). Thanks to the kingdom’s recent tourist initiatives, local developers have opened new facilities to begin to accommodate divers. It’s still more of an adventure seeker’s expedition, but I suspect that will not last for long. Restrictions are easing and both the head of the coastguard in the region and the local authorities in Farasan (also the name of the main city) have pledged their support to tourists.

And how’s the diving?
This is a choice diving location due to the remote location of the site, moderate to warm-water temperatures, generally good visibility and an abundance of colourful marine life. The Farasan archipelago is the largest group of islands in the Red Sea, located 40km off the coast of Saudi Arabia opposite the port of Jizan. Jacques Cousteau once commented that the Farasan archipelago was home to one of the most important ecosystems in the world.

Covering 600km, this virtually untouched coral reef skirts 84 low-lying desert islands – equivalent to the amount of reef along the rest of Saudi Arabia’s coast. The bluish emerald-green, tropical coastal waters are generally shallow, about 10–12m deep, and the waters are rich with abundant and diverse marine life, including breeding populations of sea turtles. Lush mangroves and seagrass beds provide nursery grounds for pelagic fish such as Spanish mackerel.

The Red Sea is an ecosystem of the Indo-Pacific variety and unlike the over-dived areas offshore at Jeddah, around the islands there is still an abundance of varieties of healthy and colourful soft corals. There are also formations that can only be described as ‘Christmas tree-like’ which are not to be found along the Saudi mainland shoreline.

A large number of endemic species are to be found in the coral reef habitat, including various species of butterflyfish, angelfish, bannerfish, parrotfish, pufferfish, porcupinefish, trunkfish, triggerfish, surgeonfish, and clownfish. We encountered shoals of snappers, jacks and barracuda. There were schools of sweetlips and lionfish, as well as an unusual abundance of blue-spotted stingrays, manta rays and, to a lesser degree, eagle rays. Lurking beneath the ledges of the reef we found a variety of Red Sea groupers and moray eels.

At one point, while we snorkelled next to our boat, a school of dolphins momentarily swam in to meet us. At two different dive sites we encountered manta rays, which were 4 to 5m across their pectoral fins. We were hoping to encounter the migratory whale sharks that had been spotted days before our arrival. Although we were not lucky enough to see the whale sharks, we had several close encounters with white-tip reef sharks.

How do you get there?
It is relatively simple to get to the islands from the United Kingdom. From Heathrow Airport take Saudi Arabian Airlines to Jeddah and transfer from Jeddah to Jizan. Flights cost around £575 for a return. Once in Jizan, take a cab to the port and hire a felucca or high-speed boat – for about £75 per boat each way – to Farasan. Reputable tour guides can arrange a package deal for your group’s visas, boat fees and hotel accommodation.

The Farasan Islands are a must for Red Sea aficionados in search of something different. Above all, these islands are devoid of dive vessels, and provide the perfect antidote to the crowds of Hurghada and Sharm (and, for that matter, Eilat, Aqaba and Dahab). The only other human beings we passed on our four-day trip were occasional local fishermen.

For a trouble-free diving experience, I suggest you use one of the local operators such as Mohammad Ali al Sheikh. He can be reached by phone at his new three-star hotel, the Farasan Hotel, on 00 966 7316 0876 or by email:  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or see the website: www.saudidiving.com.