Shark Special - Walker's Cay

So, what’s new?
Famed for their large population of reef sharks, the seas around this Bahamian island are fast acquiring a reputation for attracting even bigger predators. Walker’s Cay is the only place in the world where snorkellers can swim with up to 15 bull sharks (although these encounters are strictly limited to special groups). During DIVE’s visit, reports were also coming in of a new site where baiting had attracted bull and tiger sharks and that most elusive of predators, the great hammerhead.

And how’s the diving?
Well, you don’t come here for the macro life! Walker’s Cay, as you may have already guessed, is all about sharks – lots of them. Shark feeds are now an established attraction throughout the Bahamas and the Caribbean, but the feed at Walker’s is the biggest and best.

The bait, a frozen block of fish pieces known as a chumsicle, is suspended in mid-water. The sharks regard you as another large predator also there for a free meal, rather than as a potential source of food. Safety precautions have to be followed: divers are warned not to stray within the ‘zone of competition’ around the chumsicle itself (about 4m). It is essential to wear gloves and a hood, in order to cover up any white flesh that might be mistaken for tasty fish morsels.

Otherwise, you are free to swim with the sharks. During DIVE’s visit, this ‘shark rodeo’ was attracting about 80 sharks, most of which were Caribbean reef and blacktips, plus a few nurse sharks.

Should you tire of sharks, there are even a couple of wrecked tugboats to explore, as well as the remains of a Spanish galleon, the Don José Evangelista. The reefs themselves have formed on fossilized coral that has created limestone buttresses full of swim-throughs and caverns. The scenery is dominated by bush-like colonies of sea rods (a member of the gorgonian family), and common sea fans are similarly thick on the ground. Fish life is not abundant around the reefs, but tarpon are frequently seen and there is an incredibly friendly great barracuda that sometimes hangs out under the dive boats.

Tell us about the island
Located 220km southwest of Fort Lauderdale in Florida, Walker’s Cay is the northernmost of the Abaco islands, at the northern tip of the Bahamas.

The island has a small marina and is largely the domain of sports fishermen, but has a famous dive operation run by the affable Texan, Gary Adkison. In recent years, Adkison has been allowing select groups of shark aficionados to snorkel with the bull sharks which congregate at a shallow bay near the island’s runway. He is adamant that only special groups with an emphasis on education will be allowed to swim with the bulls, which are normally regarded as a dangerous species.

Accommodation any good?
The hotel at Walker’s Cay is comfortable, but you do need to find someone to share the room, or you’ll get stung for a single supplement. Meals are of a high standard and there’s also a bar, a lunch restaurant and a small nightclub. Rum cocktails are a speciality: we recommend the Rum Runner.

And the verdict?
Walker’s Cay is a must. As a shark-diving site, it ranks alongside places such as Cocos Island, and can boast the comforts that come with being an American-owned resort.

How do I find out more?
DIVE travelled with specialist tour operator Divequest, which offers a variety of packages at Walker’s Cay and is considering running a bull shark special in tandem with the Shark Trust early next year. Flights to Miami depart from London Gatwick, with a night in Fort Lauderdale before you travel on to the island (a one-hour flight by seaplane). Prices vary depending on the time of year: a seven-night package is priced £1,370 from 1 May to 30 June, and from 1 September to 31 October. Contact Divequest on 01254 826322.