Curaçao, South Caribbean

Photo: Dos Winkel Photo: Dos Winkel Photo: Dos Winkel Photo: Dos Winkel Photo: Dos Winkel

Exquisite corals and a determination to preserve them have placed Curaçao firmly on the diving map. DIVE goes in search of excellent Caribbean diving

So what’s new?
This island destination in the Dutch Antilles is promoting coral conservation in a big way. In 2002 Curaçao played host to the first meeting of marine environmentalists from all over the Caribbean. The volunteer organisation Reef Care Curaçao hosted the Caribbean Coral Reef Conservation Conference in an effort to pool resources to combat coral reef destruction in the area. A lot of energy has been pumped into Curaçao’s diving industry and the island is proving a worthy neighbour to the popular dive destination of Bonaire.

What’s there?
If it’s coral that interests you, Curaçao will be right up your street. The island was formed from volcanic rock, on top of which coral has been growing for centuries.

Culturally, the island feels more South American than Caribbean, which is no real surprise as its shores rest just north of the Venezuelan coast. Being a Dutch colony, it also has the stamp of the Netherlands, especially in its brightly coloured buildings.

The landscape is arid and little grows there except for forests of cacti, and the famous Curaçao orange – the major ingredient of the liqueur that shares the island’s name.

And how’s the diving?
Curaçao’s dive sites can be split into two categories: those with small, dainty coral and colourful fishlife and those with fantastically large corals and sponge forests that are home to deeper-dwelling inhabitants.

Although the sites are generally close to the shore, the best way to reach them is by boat. Currents can be strong in certain areas and some sites are too far to swim to. As a rule, conditions on the northwestern sites are relatively calm, while the southeast is often exposed to rough seas.
Dive trips from Kura Hulanda are available on the boat Explorador, which is run by Caribbean Sea Sports (the local dive school). The Habitat Curaçao Dive resort operates its own dive boat.

Curaçao is famous for three particular reef dives. Mushroom Forest is something you would expect to read about in a Roald Dahl story – these huge sponge formations dwarf even the largest of divers. The site was named after the many large coral heads of star coral that eroded at the base and now resemble 3m-tall mushrooms. These are extremely colourful and a haven for moray eels, parrotfish and peacock flounders.

Just to the north of Mushroom Forest is Sponge Forest, which drops off from 12m to 40m, where stoney corals and an array of basket and branched sponges can be found.

Perhaps the most fascinating site, certainly, from a marine biologist’s point of view, is Black Coral Garden, where this extremely rare coral can be spotted in shallow water. The steep drop-off begins at 12m and descends below 40m, where a dense, black coral forest begins to reveal itself. It’s also
a good place to spot some top marine life including manta rays, seahorses, and the odd whale shark. If you’re very lucky you will see coral spawning, which occurs in early October. Eggs and sperm are released from the coral in small clouds and provide one of the best night diving experiences to be had.

There are quite a few wreck dives to choose from, including a very shallow, picturesque tugboat and the 3,000-tonne Superior Producer cargo wreck. Thanks to the excellent visibility, you can usually see the entire length of the Superior Producer – lying at 34m – as soon as you enter the water. The wheelhouse interior and parts of the hull are covered in cup coral and sponges, while the easy swim-through cargo hold offers lots of life among the old clothes and boots that lie around it.

Accommodation any good?
For luxury five-star treatment close to the main city of Willemstad, Kura Hulanda offers it all and more. It has 67 rooms in its village complex and several swimming pools and restaurants, including an eco pool with its very own waterfall. For more details see the website www.kurahulanda.com.

Habitat Curaçao is located on an uncrowded part of the west coast. It operates a ‘diving freedom’ policy, allowing 24-hour diving from its shore-diving pier, with cylinders available at any time. This place has a very friendly atmosphere, excellent service, and includes a very professional dive boat operation.

For more details see www.habitatdiveresorts.com.

Curaçao has suffered from over-fishing in the past, which has visibly depleted fish life. However, with the introduction of tough regulations things are starting to look up. Although dive operators are a little conservative and strict about dive profiles, you generally get everything you could wish for in a diving experience. The reefs are relatively good, the sponges are breathtaking and the visibility is outstanding.

The Curaçao Tourist Board in London can be contacted on 020 7431 4045, email  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . Harlequin Holidays is offering a week’s holiday at Habitat Curaçao based on a twin share, with KLM flights, for £810. A two-tank boat dive and unlimited shore diving costs £40 per person, per day.

Contact Harlequin on 01708 8503330 or see the website http://www.harlequin-holidays.co.uk. For flights only contact KLM on tel: 08705 074074 or see the website www.klm.com. Return flights are via Amsterdam and cost around £500. For more information on Caribbean Sea Sports visit http://www.caribseasports.com.