Sydney, Australia

Before joining the crowds as they head for the Barrier Reef, why not check out Sydney where the underwater action has its own attraction?

So what’s new?
A recent study revealed that Sydney Harbour has more marine species than any other harbour in the world. Around 600 marine animals have already been identified and more are still being discovered. Situated more than 1,000 miles south of the diving Mecca of Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef, Sydney offers a totally different diving experience to that found on coral reefs. The secrets of Sydney’s underwater world are beginning to be unlocked by the many visitors that come here every year. With promises of leafy sea dragons, Port Jackson sharks, wobbegong and sand tiger sharks, colourful sponge gardens, nudibranchs, wrasse, and not forgetting the numerous historical wrecks, there’s plenty to see here. Any of the diving locals who frequent these shores will be quick to tell you that there are more than 200 good diving sites in the harbour and around its north and south shores.

And how’s the diving?
The best shore dives in Sydney are the Gordon’s Bay Underwater Nature Trail, north of Coogee; Shark Point, Clovelly and Ship Rock, Cronulla. Popular boat dive sites are Wedding Cake Island, off Coogee, around the Sydney Heads, and off the Royal National Park. One of the most spectacular dives has to be Magic Point, nicknamed ‘the shark dive’. Here, as you pass boulders and kelp down to 15m, a small cave entrance provides a haven for more than ten resident sand tiger sharks (know by locals as grey nurse sharks). Take a closer look beyond these magnificent pelagics and you will often see shoals of yellowtails sailing past. Divers might also find the occasional metre-long wobbegong shark (or carpet shark), or perhaps a glimpse of a leafy sea dragon taking shelter in the kelp.
The Wall of China just off North Head provides an excellent opportunity to see the sponge gardens at their best, in just 15 to 20m of water. As well as friendly groupers and an abundance of sea urchins, a 2m-long bull ray is said to rest in this area. Port Jackson sharks, can also be seen in great numbers – an excellent opportunity to add an unusual shark to your logbook.

Tell us about the area?
Sydney is one of the world’s largest and most spectacular harbours. The harbour divides Sydney into northern and southern halves, with the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Harbour Tunnel joining the two shores. It really is a water lover’s paradise, with the chance to try out almost every conceivable watersport imaginable from surfing, sailing, kayaking and kite surfing (the latest trend to hit Sydney’s northern beaches). With warm weather throughout most of the year – despite a couple of cold spells in the months of June, July and August – visitors will find themselves dodging fellow watersport enthusiasts out in the ocean or within the relative shelter of the harbour. The ocean is only a stone’s throw from the busy city centre and many residents commute every day on the harbour’s inexpensive and well-run ferry – a far cry from London’s packed
tube network.

Accommodation any good?
Sydney offers all types of accommodation for all sorts of needs, ranging from places with expensive views of the Opera House to the more basic and cheap backpacker dorms. Tourists generally settle themselves in three different areas of Sydney. Those looking to get a feel of the hustle and bustle tend to stay in and around the city centre. A more quiet option is to stay around Sydney’s northern and southern shores – the latter being home to the famous Bondi Beach. To truly get away from it all and get a taste of local beach life, the North Shore is a popular choice: it stretches from the beaches of Manly all the way to Palm Beach (with plenty of beaches to stop off along the way).

Sydney can’t compete with Cairns and the coral reefs of the largest marine park in the world, but the beauty of the sponge gardens and their variety of marine life and wrecks is still something special and well worth seeing. Water temperatures range from 15ºC to 25ºC, with visibility varying from an average of 5m in summer, to up to 30m in the winter period. Diving in Sydney is a year-round activity – most divers need no more than a 7mm suit in the cold months.

How do I find out more? Sydney Scuba, based in the Kings Cross area of the city, offers a good range of diving on daily boat dives and weekend trips. Shore dives cost approximately £14 for one dive and £18 for two dives. Boat dives range from AUS$55 for a single dive and AUS$90 for two dives. Southern Cross Divers is a small outfit in Middle Harbour on the North Shore of Sydney and is Sydney’s only deep and wreck-diving specialist. It also runs BSAC open-water courses.