St Paul Island, Nova Scotia

So what’s new?
This windswept island, located in the Gulf of St Lawrence, is finally opening up to divers with a taste for adventure. Known as the ‘Graveyard of the Gulf’, this five-square-kilometre island, 22km offshore, is home to an estimated 350 shipwrecks – and more are being discovered all the time. Thanks to improved local infrastructure and an upsurge of interest in cold-water diving, it is possible to experience this wilderness – as long as you don’t mind roughing it.

And how’s the diving?
How do you describe coming across an historic shipwreck for the first time and finding everything sitting there, completely untouched since the day it sank? That’s the real point of diving St Paul Island: if you don’t mind doing a bit of investigative diving, there are treasures to be found and if you’re lucky you might find a wreck of your own.

Diving conditions are challenging, to say the least. The only realistic months for diving are July and August, as the rest of the year presents a procession of Atlantic storms, fog and even ice. When you do get in the water, you will find it averages a relatively warm 16ºC down to about 15m. You then hit a thermocline, and the temperature plunges down to a seriously cold 5ºC. This may sound like bad news, but it does have its advantages: the cold water is perfectly clear, and when you do decide to ascend, the shallow water feels like the Caribbean by comparison. All diving is carried out from large fishing boats. Last year, a group of BSAC divers visited the island and discovered a mystery wreck brimming with artefacts, including a bell that was dated 1861. Readers should be aware that Canadian law prohibits the raising of artefacts from shipwrecks.

The best-known wrecks here are perhaps better described as debris fields, some of which have been heavily salvaged. That said, there’s lots of brass and other artefacts to be found. The place is teeming with lobsters, which wander around the sea bed, seemingly oblivious to divers. Dolphins and seals are seen underwater, too.

Accommodation any good?
You have a choice: camping in the meadow at Atlantic Cove in the middle of the island, or sleeping in the Governor’s derelict house. Many of those who had been on the wrecked ships starved to death on the island and the meadow is their graveyard. The Governor’s house has been used for sleeping and eating, but the unremitting onslaught of weather is taking its toll, and it will soon become unusable. Another possibility is sleeping on the boats, but this option has the disadvantage of limited space and you would still need to come ashore to eat. There is talk of purpose-built huts being erected.

At the moment, available toilet facilities are very basic: they don’t exactly flush, but at least you’re indoors! Food is provided by a dedicated cook, is always delicious and never in short supply.

What do you do when you’re not diving?
During the daytime you can explore the island. There are two lakes, two lighthouses and numerous small buildings, all of which are linked by a track that runs along the length of the island. The trek up to one of the lakes took our test divers two-and-a-half hours (there and back) thanks to the dense forest that covers much of the island.

And the verdict...
Diving St Paul Island is a true adventure. It requires serious divers who aren’t afraid of cold water or hard work, and who can work as a team. It takes more effort than your average diving holiday, but the potential return on your investment is far greater. Just being there is an achievement, but finding a virgin wreck is quite a bonus!

How do I find out more?
Diversion Dive Tours UK runs specialist 11-day trips, which include all meals and lodging, but exclude flights. Prices are still being arranged for next year’s expeditions, but a rough estimate has the flights to Halifax costing about £700, while the expedition itself is priced around £1,000. Check out the web sitehttp://www.diversiondivetours.com