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scuba stories, diving stories

Cyprus

cypthumbThe island of Cyprus lies in the eastern Mediterranean and offers a fascinating alternative to the Red Sea diving holiday

A resident fireworm


Exploring the Zenobia's exterior


A lifeboat on the Zenobia

The island of Cyprus lies in the eastern Mediterranean and offers a fascinating alternative to the Red Sea diving holiday. A former British colony, the island was effectively carved in two after Turkey invaded and occupied the northern part in 1974; the southern side remains Greek Cypriot. Cyprus has beautiful beaches, rugged mountains, olive groves, traditional villages and ancient sites, all ideal for non-diving partners to explore. The island is well known for its after-dark clubbing scene, epitomised by the town of Agia Napa on the eastern side. For those seeking more laidback nightlife, there are plenty of traditional Greek restaurants serving fantastic food at reasonable prices.

The water is clear and warm most of the year, but it has to be said that marine life is relatively sparse. Nevertheless, the underwater topography is varied, with plenty of swim-throughs and drop-offs and the odd octopus and barracuda thrown in for good measure.

The primary lure for divers, though, is the wreck of the Zenobia: a roll-on, roll-off passenger ferry that sank on its maiden voyage in 1980 and now lies just outside Larnarca harbour, making it easily accessible from the shore (expect a five-minute RIB ride). The wreck is 178m long by 28m wide and lies on its port side, starting at a depth of 16m and descending to the sea bed at 42m. There are more than 100 lorries on board, each containing their original cargo. The wreck is completely intact and there are numerous opportunities for penetration dives.

Cyprus would ideally suit recreational divers looking to combine a family holiday with a couple of days of diving, or those with an interest in wrecks – particularly serious wreck-divers looking for challenging penetration dives.

Zenobia – outside tour and upper cargo deck: Starting at the stern, this tour passes the propellers and the huge loading door before entering the upper cargo hold – a huge cavern about half the length of the ship, with a maximum depth of about 32m. In near-total darkness, a torch is an essential tool when exploring the remains of the lorries inside. Instructions to boarding lorries are still visible, written on the wall of the hold.

Zenobia – canteen and accommodation block: This tour enters the wreck through the windows of the canteen, where you can still make out the original carpet. From there, the tour moves through the accommodation block and on into the captain’s quarters, with a maximum depth of about 31m.

Tunnels and Cave: Access to this site, located in the Cape Greco area between the towns of Agia Napa and Protaras, is via a giant 3m stride from the rocks. A gentle reef swim leads to a rocky outcrop with numerous tunnel swim-throughs harbouring abundant sealife, notably the ubiquitous fireworm, and other little critters. Exiting the site is an entertaining experience, as you have to be hoisted through a blowhole by the dive guide.

Seasonality
Cyprus has a typical Mediterranean climate. The summer months of June to September are hot and inland temperatures can soar over 40°C. August is peak season and the beaches, restaurants and hotels can get full; accommodation tends to be more expensive during this time. Winters are moderately wet, with temperatures of 5–15°C. The visibility is typically around 20–30m and the water temperature varies between 28°C in the summer and 16°C in the winter.

Getting there
British Airways (http://www.britishairways.com), easyJet (http://www.easyjet.com) and Cyprus Airways (http://www.cyprusairways.com) all fly regularly to either Larnaca or Paphos. There are numerous cheap deals around and, with a flight time of four and a half hours, you can even visit over a long weekend. I used Dive in Larnaca ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ), which offers full tours inside the Zenobia wreck. Most dive centres can organise cheap accommodation close to their bases.
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