Thousands of divers hoping to visit the Galápagos have had their plans thrown into disarray, after a shake-up in the permits system left 12 liveaboards effectively banned from operating.

The only liveaboards currently able to operate in the Ecuador-owned islands are the Peter Hughes vessel Sky Dancer, the Galápagos Aggressor and the Ecoventura-run Santiago Dunn, all of which already have the necessary permit. The problems stem from the introduction of a new special diving permit; most of the vessels were under the impression that they could continue to operate with snorkeling and land visit permits until the new scheme starts in 2008.

However, the park's new director, Raquel Molina, made the laws immediately effective in the face of criticism from the fishing lobby, which says that tourist agencies have managed to bend the rules with impunity. Tensions are still high following the recent UNESCO declaration that the Galápagos environment is 'in danger', with mass tourism and commercial fishing both highlighted as problems.

Among those with cancelled trips is Reading BSAC member Hamish Morrison, whose August trip on the vessel Tip Top III has now been cancelled by his UK agents RegalDive. Hamish is trying to rebook on another boat but fears that his dreams of visiting Galápagos in 2007 are fast fading.

Another UK-based agent, Scuba Tours Worldwide, has been making daily updates on its website, www.scubascuba.com, while 64 of its clients wait to see if their trips - on the liveaboards Deep Blue and Daphne - will go ahead. Various Ecuadorian government departments have been in heated discussion over the issue, but as DIVE went to press there had been no clear announcements and for many, dreams of the holiday of a lifetime were fast fading.