Photo: Jane Morgan Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM

The setting: It is hardly surprising that Seahouses has been designated as an area of outstanding natural beauty, with its sweeping beaches and open views. This historic fishing village is perched on the edge of the Northumberland coast, 50 miles north of Newcastle, and is the gateway to the Farne Islands. These rocky islands lie two miles offshore between Seahouses and Bamburgh Castle. Once a place of pilgrimage, they are today considered to be one of the most important nature reserves in Europe.

Up to 28 of the islands can be visible depending on the state of the tide, and they are split into two groups that are divided by a stretch of water called Staple Sound. Many seabirds inhabit these islets, including puffins and terns, but in the outer Farnes the other famous residents are the 4,000 Atlantic grey seals.

When to go: The Farne Islands are very exposed and can be subject to rough seas and strong currents, so a summertime visit is recommended. Also, due to arctic currents the North Sea can be pretty chilly early in the season. Most of the diving around the islands needs to be planned for slack water, as ripping torrents of water can course between them. Visibility is normally excellent, between eight and 15m.

Diving Highlights: The Farnes offer something for everyone, with wrecks, scenic dives and, of course, fin tugging with the locals (seals, that is!). The islands have long been recognised as one of the most hazardous areas for shipping and many vessels have met their fate here. Many of the wrecks are broken up due to constant hammering from the sea, but the most intact is the Somali, a 6,810-ton passenger-cargo steamer built in 1930, which was bombed during the Second World War The wreck, which must be dived at slack, lies in 30m of water off Beadnell village on a sea bed of sand and shale. An anti-aircraft gun is still visible at the stern and the wreck is home to shoals of fish during the summer, making it popular with fishermen, so watch out for nets and lines.

The Britannia is a smaller 740-ton steamship that came to grief at the Crumstone back in 1915. The bow is the most intact part of the wreck and lies at 26m. Wreckage is strewn across the sea bed and you can follow it along up the slope towards the Crumstone. The boilers can be found at the top of the incline, standing upright in front of a very photogenic gully. The wreck is a blaze of colour, with dead men's fingers in orange and white and sunstars scattered around the wreckage on the shingle sea bed.

The Hopper is a shallow scenic dive with walls encrusted with dead men's fingers. There is a vast array of marine life to see, with crabs and lobsters hiding within the crevices. Also, it doesn't usually take long before you feel a little tugging on your fins and you can spend most of the dive getting acquainted with the friendly local grey seals. Jane Morgan

Pie and a pint: There are plenty of local hostelries to choose from in Seahouses, where you can enjoy a Northumberland cask beer. A stone's throw from the harbour, the Olde Ship Hotel is well worth a visit. There are restaurants to suit most tastes, including of course the obligatory fish and chips.

Useful contacts: Seahouses Harbour (tel: 01665 720033). Charter boats include Farne Diving (tel: 01665 720615), Farne Island Diving Charters (tel: 07802 785752), Farne Islands (tel: 01665 721297) and Sovereign Diving (tel: 01665 720059).

Insider knowledge: Boats can be launched at Seahouses Harbour every day, but only between 8.30am and 6pm. There are lots of options for accommodation in Seahouses, from hotels and guesthouses to camping and hostels. See the community website: www.seahouses.org. Sovereign Diving has a filling station in the village where you can get tanks pumped with air or nitrox to 300 bar. They also own their own divers lodge and restaurant.