Photo: Jane Morgan Map Photo: Jane Morgan Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM Photo: JM

The island of Lundy sits in the middle of the Bristol Channel, a high-energy zone far from the polluting influence of the mainland. Its 9m tidal range is the second greatest in the world (after the Bay of Fundy in Canada) and it bears the brunt of the Atlantic Ocean's ferocity. Conditions can be textbook offshore diving, with clear blue water and penetrating light. Yet the same marine dynamism that feeds Lundy can also bring visibility down.

For visiting divers it represents something of a gamble - fair weather or foul? The week before my visit had seen blue skies and flat seas. When I arrived, however, I was greeted with a fanfare of rain, wind and mist. I sought an optimistic forecast from our skipper, who replied, with a cheery grin: 'It's going to be pants!' In fact we did enjoy some sunny interludes, but I did face the elemental side of Lundy during my time there.

As we all know, underwater visibility can be the first casualty of rough weather. Yet even these dark and foreboding clouds had a silver lining of sorts. Here's the important distinction: lower visibility doesn't mean you can't see anything. On the contrary, it changes your diving habits so that you end up looking more closely at the area immediately around you. For me, it was a real eye-opener, leading me to notice small creatures tucked away between the anemones and sponges.

In a way, gambling has long been part of Lundy's heritage. The island was bought around the turn of the 19th century by Sir Vere Hunt for only £700, but was lost by his son in an ill-fated game of cards not long afterwards. Today, Lundy's future is far more secure, leased by the Landmark Trust from the National Trust, and it is Britain's first statutory Marine Nature Reserve.

I believe it's a place to enjoy whether you can see for 15m or just five. So, here's my own guide to making the most of Lundy.

THE MV ROBERT
Position:
51º 11.09' N
004º 38.81' W

This is one of the prettiest wrecks that I have had the pleasure of diving in the UK. The Robert was a small coaster, which sank off the east coast in 1975 when her cargo of coal dust shifted during a storm.

At 50m in length the wreck rests on the starboard side, its port side lying at approximately 18m, with the starboard at 29m. This is the most intact wreck in Lundy's waters, but care must be taken to dive it during slack (preferably low-water slack), as the tidal stream can be incredibly strong. These currents introduce plenty of nutrient-rich water, and a prolific number of filter-feeding invertebrates have made homes here.

Festooned with plumose anemones and interspersed with red seaweeds and hydroids, the superstructure of the Robert is a myriad of colours that even managed to shine through the pea-soup water we had on my trip. With only 4-5m visibility it wasn't possible to admire the big picture, but closer inspection revealed a plethora of small life. The hull is covered with candy-stripe flatworms and nudibranchs that stand out against a background of deep red algae and seaweed. Clinging onto the superstructure at the bow, we found spider crabs, starfish and bunches of squid eggs. At the stern there were several small pipes; we found that if you watched these pipes for a few minutes, the occupants would become bold and venture out into the open. We also saw tompot blennies, leopard-spotted gobies and conger eels.

THE KNOLL PINS
Position:
51º 11.28' N
004º 39.63' W

These are two pinnacles, the tops of which are exposed during low water. The pinnacles are covered with life, from the kelp canopy at the top down to the burrowing anemones on the silty bottom. Visibility in the kelp was quite workable, so we spent some time admiring the lion's mane and moon jellyfish that were floating around the kelp fronds. There was also a large spider crab clinging desperately to some kelp as it swished back and forth in the surge.

As we dropped deeper, the clarity of the water deteriorated so we reverted to Plan B (back to the small stuff!) and worked our way slowly around the pinnacles, checking out the overhangs. These were smothered with the whole colour spectrum of glistening jewel anemones sparkling in our torchlight. On the walls, we discovered the captivating sunset cup coral that is the most intense yellow - like a miniature sun. This type of coral is really a warm-water species and arrived in Lundy as a result of warm currents from the Mediterranean flowing into the Bristol Channel.

The protected gullies were also full of colour as they played host to plenty more anemones, vibrant red fingers and stunning pink sea fans. A real treat was to find a mermaid's purse entwined in the seaweed. This is the egg case of the common dogfish and sometimes the young sharks are visible inside. In the end, it didn't really matter that we couldn't spot the young seals through the millions of particles before our eyes because they found us! The dive concluded with a session of fin tugging, and in the confusion I lost my buddy, who was escorted back to the surface with her very own pinniped guide!

GANNET'S ROCK
Position:
51º 11.77' N
004º 40.9' W

Lundy's jewel-anemone capital is located at the north end of Gannet's Bay on the eastern side of the island. The outside wall of the rock drops down to approximately 30m and you can work your way back up and around the rock, checking out the overhangs on route. Its biggest-selling point is its small creatures, so good visibility isn't really essential here. Perhaps it was just as well, because a Force 6 gale the previous day had destroyed any chance of clear water on the eastern side of the island.

There are carpets of both jewel anemones and the incredibly pretty yellow anemones littered across the walls. The latter are another example of larvae that hitched a lift on the Mediterranean current, and Lundy is about as far north as these delicate anemone colonies are found. The wall is also covered with radiant red fingers and their more common relative - dead men's fingers. All of the small cracks and crevices have been utilised by the crustacean populations with both edible and velvet swimming crabs, squat lobsters and shrimps peering out from the relative safety of their rocky homes.

BRAZEN WARD
Position:
51º 11.37' N
004º 39.67' W

Brazen Ward can be dived as a drift. Whether you head north or south depends on the state of the tide - the currents can be strong and surface marker buoys are a must. South to north is the best dive, as you can start around the outside of the rock and drift into the bay where the seals are waiting.

Faced with low visibility, we swam close to the bottom at 20m, keeping our eyes open for small creatures. There were beautiful trumpet anemones and burrowing anemones on the sandy bottom, as well as lots of little hermit crabs scurrying around the Ross corals. The attractive brown daisy anemones gathered together in groups. We also found dogfish around the rocky outcrops. Heading into slightly shallower water, we drifted past large rock faces decorated with attractive sargartia anemones, sponges and sea fans. We found that visibility picked up in the shelter of the bay, so we stayed there to photograph the young seals.

Where to stay…

Lundy

Despite the vagaries of Atlantic weather, it pays to plan your visit well in advance. Several accommodation options are available on Lundy itself, but bear in mind it's a punishing climb to the top of the hill to the local pub, the Maurisco Tavern. For more details phone 01271 863636 or see the website www.lundyisland.co.uk.

Clovelly

If you would prefer to travel back to the mainland, there are hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in Clovelly, North Devon. If you are staying in Upper Clovelly, it is possible to use an angler's car park towards the bottom of the hill close to the harbour - you certainly wouldn't want to walk it. North Devon Tourism at www.northdevon.com can help with accommodation

Ilfracombe

Some boats make the journey out from Ilfracombe. It is a longer journey than from Clovelly, but there is plenty of accommodation on offer. For more details go to www.ilfracombe-tourism.co.uk.

NO-TAKE ZONE

Lundy haS long been recognised as an important area for wildlife. Most of the island is designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and, in 1986, the seas around the island were designated as England's first Marine Nature Reserve (MNR).

The island is now the first area in Britain to have a statutory No Take Zone (NTZ), which is protected by law. Fishing, potting and other activities that result in the killing or removal of marine life are prohibited.

Principal scientist and project manager, Dr Miles Hoskin, and lead scientist Prof Ross Coleman have reported that the number of lobsters in the NTZ tripled after just 18 months. This figure dropped slightly this year, due to illegal potting in the north of the zone.

Last year's statistics were formulated by comparing the number of lobsters in the NTZ to the number around the rest of the island. The scientists admit that this does not constitute base line data, so it will still be some time before the zone's success or failure can be assessed.

Useful contacts

Hidden Depths
01722 501692
http://www.hiddendepthsdivetours.com

Jessica Hettie
01237 431405
http://www.clovelly-charters.ukf.net

Lundy Murrelet
01237 431875
http://www.lundy-charters.co.uk

Obsession Charters
01271 866 325

Wittering Divers
01243 672031
http://www.witteringdivers.co.uk