Anemonefish on a red anemone. (Photo: Jane Morgan) Glassy sweepers (Photo: Jane Morgan) Frogfish (Photo: Jane Morgan) Peppered Moray (Photo: Jane Morgan)

TABA

By Jane Morgan

Nestled at the far north of the Sinai peninsular, Taba is overlooked by neighbouring Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia, across the Gulf of Aqaba. The actual village of Taba is just a stone's throw from the Israeli border into Eilat and the new five-star resort of Taba Heights is approximately 20 minutes' drive further south.

Although a relatively new resort, Taba is serviced with direct flights from both Gatwick and Manchester. No visa queues in this airport; a Sinai pass is issued on arrival free of charge. The airport is 800m above sea level and approximately 35 minutes' coach transfer down to the Taba hotels, but add an extra 25 minutes to the new resort of Taba Heights.

The hotels all have four and five stars, and offer accommodation on either a half-board or all-inclusive basis. There are no restaurants close by, so eating in the hotel is really the only option. That is, unless you stay close to the border, in which case you can pop into Eilat for a night on the town.

Due to the close proximity to neighbouring countries, several interesting trips are available, including the sandstone city of Petra and the Wadi Rum, which provided wonderful backdrops to the Indiana Jones series of films. Or, if you prefer to take things easy, how about trying your luck at walking on water in the Dead Sea?

DIVING
There are two excellent dive centres: Aquasport, based at the Taba Hilton close to Taba village, and Waterworld, based at Taba Heights. Aquasport offers shore diving from the Hilton and boat diving from the Kewet Salem dive boat. Waterworld offers mainly boat diving, although there are shore dives directly in front of the centre where open water training takes place.

There are more than 25 dive sites, but new ones are still being discovered. You won't find the exhilarating currents and drop-offs of Ras Mohammed here, but the region boasts a number of treasures, in particular one of the most ugly fish in the world - the frogfish.

On the house reef at Taba Hilton where open water divers train, there is a myriad of life, including a green frogfish, octopus and morays. The most outstanding dive is The Canyon, where our reporter saw no fewer than four frogfish in an assortment of colours. Stonefish, peppered morays, octopus and nudibranchs are all on view and it's not unusual to see ghost pipefish and the reef's resident hawksbill turtle. The boat diving also had plenty of surprises: stunning red anemones with host anemonefish and shrimps at the Fjord site, cleaning stations and beautiful coral bommies at the Aquarium and huge table corals at Maxwell's Reef.

TOP DIVES
The Canyon
If frogfish are your thing, then this is the site for you. Add to that, stonefish, octopus, a turtle, ghost pipefish and nudibranchs, and you have a photographer's paradise.

The Aquarium
A gentle drift dive past lots of coral bommies, with plenty of fish life around the cleaning station.

Black Coral
This site is littered with peppered morays which peer out from soft corals. There are also schools of lionfish, glassy sweepers and plenty of coral grouper lining up to be cleaned.

Pyjama nudibranch (Photo: Jane Morgan) Common octopus (Photo: Jane Morgan) Sinkers dive site, Nuweiba (Photo: Jane Morgan) Diver and anthias (Photo: Jane Morgan)

NUWEIBA

By Jane Morgan

Nuweiba is located 70km south of Taba and 180km north of Sharm El Sheikh and can be accessed from either airport. There are several hotels and camps scattered along the 7km coastline, but the most popular with the British market is the Coral Hilton, which is home to Emperor Divers, who also offers transfers from other hotels.

The actual town of Nuweiba is built around the former Moshav Neviot, which was established during the Israeli occupation in 1971. This is the boundary between two Bedouin tribes - the Tarabin in the north and the Muzeina in the south. There are a few supermarkets, restaurants and bazaars to be found here.

For centuries, the port of Nuweiba has drawn travellers on their journey to Mecca. It allows easy access for people who want to visit Jordan, with daily ferries taking just 90 minutes to reach the port of Aqaba.

DIVING
All of the diving in this region is from the shore with clients being transported by jeep or camel to surrounding areas. For guests at the Coral Hilton, Emperor Divers could not be better placed, as it is just a short walk across the sandy beach to the stunning house reef. The main reef lies between 5 and 20m which is ideal for novice divers and snorkellers alike. The concentration and diversity of the fish life also makes it a haven for underwater photographers. There is a profusion of life to be found here with several cleaning stations full of puffers, yellow mouthed morays, seahorses and nudibranchs, to name but a few.

Other great dive sites in the area include MFO This dive begins on two salination pipes that are covered in soft corals and offer shelter to schools of fish. A short swim from these is the reef at 14-20m with a collection of small pinnacles and coral heads. More experienced divers will love Sinkers. Starting at 35m, this mooring chain is absolutely stunning - and don't forget to check the nearby gorgonian fan for the resident longnose hawkfish.

TOP DIVES
Abou Lou Lou house reef
This site will keep underwater photographers busy for the whole week. The only difficulty is knowing where to point your camera. Night dives at this site are not to be missed.

Sinkers
This site is just outside the Hilton and has an unusual history. An Israeli mooring buoy was dropped in water deeper than the length of chain that connected it to its sinker. Hovering in mid-water, it is now a stunning dive. The mooring chain is smothered with soft corals, hiding frogfish, banded boxer shrimps and surrounded by glassy sweepers.

Ras Mamlach
An hour's jeep transfer away is the stunning Abu Galum National Park. The reef starts at around 12m with a beautiful coral garden and is followed by a steep wall that bottoms out at 70m. There is a profusion of life here with stunning hard and soft corals surrounded by schools of barracuda, jacks and groupers.

The blue hole (Photo: Jane Morgan) Camel dive safari (Photo: Jane Morgan) Divers at The Bells (Photo: Jane Morgan) The Canyon (Photo: David Lloyd)

DAHAB

By David Lloyd

Framed by golden mountains and the royal blue waters of the Red sea, Dahab has to be one of the most beautiful spots in the Sinai. Originally a Bedouin settlement, it has a laid-back, hassle-free atmosphere. Although still possessing backpacker charm, the miles of beach promenade is filling quickly with dive centres, bars, hotels, souvenir shops and all types of restaurants, many offering excellent food.

Dahab lies 100km north of Sharm and the 70-minute drive from the airport is a perfect opportunity to take in the spectacular Sinai views as the road twists its way through valleys and over mountain passes. There are plans to build a road direct to Sharm airport, which should cut transfer times by a third. Dahab is characterized by its golden sand beach, which stretches as far as you can see, and there is reef nearly all the way along it. The sands may be a clue to how Dahab got its name - it means 'gold' in Arabic.

DIVING
Nearly all the diving in Dahab is shore-based. It is possible to arrange dayboat dives, but the boats are privately owned and can be expensive. Instead, dive centres use jeeps to hurtle you and your gear up and down the coastline. In addition there are 'the day boats of the desert' - camels. Camel treks to your dive sites can be arranged through your dive centre, but they will require at least 24 hours notice. DIVE dived with Orca Dive Club, a professional outfit run by Wael Derballa, who has the amazing ability to remember every one of his guests' names, how they have their tea or coffee and, of course, their nitrox.

The main advantage of taking the camel trek is that you can reach sites that have only been seen by relatively few divers, and it makes the whole experience seem a touch more adventurous. However, if riding through the Sinai for an hour or two is not your idea of adventure, there are plenty of sites near the centre of Dahab that can be easily reached by Jeep.

Dahab is packed with marine life and great for underwater photography. Macro life is good and the colourful reefs are in a healthy condition. The reefs teem with small, schooling fish and you will also see octopus and turtles. Many of the sites have sandy bottoms, so photographers can settle down on the sea bed without fear of destroying coral.

If you think you've been and done the Red Sea and you haven't been to Dahab - think again. It is a friendly and relaxed dive destination with lots to offer and possesses some old-world charm. Don't wait too long to visit, though, as developers are moving in for the kill and four-star hotels are gobbling up the beach front.

TOP DIVES
Gabr El Bint
Located 30km south of Dahab, Gabr El Bint is not accessible by the usual jeep transfer. Once the road becomes undriveable you exchange four wheels for four legs, as you and all your dive kit are packed on to camels. The dive site is abundant with marine life and offers beautiful diving on walls and coral gardens. While you dive, the Bedouin guides build a shelter from the sun and prepare traditional fare for lunch.

The Islands
Located only a few kilometres from the town centre, The Islands are a spectacular cluster of coral formations. They look as ifthey have been poured from the surface all the way to the sea floor. Inhabiting these formations is a plethora of macro subjects - all the usual suspects from Red Sea reefs. Strangely enough, one of the best features of the dive is the exit - it is possible to surface through a small opening in the middle of the reef.

The Bells & The Blue Hole
Dahab's signature dive. The entry point is through an opening in the reef and once submerged, you descend down a narrow 18m chimney where you emerge on to one of the best wall dives north of Ras Mohammed. The dive finishes in the Blue Hole which is reached by crossing a saddle at 12m. Along the way look out for soft corals on the wall, rays and other large critters in the blue.

Shark's Bay (Photo: Ken Sullivan) Anthias on the reef (Photo: Gill McDonald) An anemonefish (Photo: Gill McDonald) Divers on the Carnatic (Photo: Jane Morgan)

SHARK'S BAY

By Gill McDonald

Just north of Sharm and the bustle of Naama Bay, this tiny resort is like a step back in time. It feels like the Sharm of fifteen years ago. Shark's Bay resort which was founded by three southern Sinai Bedouins in 1986 (not to be confused with the Hilton Shark's Bay Resort just up the road), has retained much of its original charm. The accommodation is still in huts which blend into the brown-red hills behind. The rooms are basic, but most have air conditioning and a fridge, not to mention the most stunning vista when you throw back the shutters at dawn. You literally live on the beach.

There are a couple of restaurants on the bay. They don't serve alcohol but are very happy for you to bring your own. The food is simple yet delicious and you sit right on the water's edge. After dinner you can lie back in a Bedouin tent on traditional cushions and sip thick, sweet coffee.

There is a small supermarket, a bazaar, a coffee shop and Internet access. It is simpler, quieter and more relaxed than the larger resorts, but you can get to Naama Bay in a 15 minute cab ride if you want to do some serious shopping or restaurant/bar hopping.

DIVING
The dive centre is excellent - well equipped with attentive and professional guides. There are several day boats operating, with helpful and courteous crews, you can also book three or five-day liveaboard safaris. One advantage is Shark's Bay's proximity to the dive sites of the islands of Tiran. Embarking on the daily chug, you are way ahead of the Naama and Sharm day boats and can capture some precious quiet time before the hordes arrive. On calm days you can venture to the western sides of the islands seeking schools of hammerhead sharks and other pelagics.

Returning from Tiran, you can visit the mainland sites of Ras Nasrani, Ghamila and Bob. These make perfect second or third dives of the day and, again, you have the place to yourself as the Sharm boats head home further south. Life is everywhere, in what is usually good visibility - busy sandy plateaux, acres of mound corals, sea fans inhabited by longnose hawkfish…

It is also well worth donning gear at dawn and checking out the pier. Dusk, too, is excellent, with the dappled light sinking over the distant mountains. Fascinating for all divers, the pier is truly a photographers' paradise. Silversides flit in their thousands, while exotic and wildly decorous lionfish float around pretending not to hunt. At dawn there are shoals of horse mackerel and large groups of needlefish; at dusk the crustaceans walk, sweetlips hide under tables of coral and the parrotfish expel their cocoons of mucus and drift off to sleep.

Groups can commandeer a day boat for the week, including tanks filled and ready for dawn dives. If you are not in a large group, you can arrange dawn/dusk diving privately with the dive centre.

It is also easy to head south for a day and enjoy the many popular dive sites around Ras Mohammed.

TOP DIVES
Jackson Reef
Drift-dive along sloping reefs and walls massed with soft corals and endless thousands of creatures. Out in the blue there are shoals of snapper and barracuda. The starker west side sometimes hosts schools of hammerhead sharks, while the softer east side is a photographic wonder, with strong currents towards the north end.

Ras Nasrani
Life is prolific on this spur-and-groove reef interspersed with sandy patches. There are a thousand different species to see and you can sit in the shallower sandy areas and just gaze in wonder.

Pier/ House Reef
The coral is damaged close to shore but there is a lovely 30m canyon and many things to see, even just under the pier. This is at its best at dawn and dusk.



DIVE CENTRES

TABA
Aquasport
http://www.aqua-sport.com
Waterworld
http://www.redseawaterworld.com
Werner Lau
http://www.wernerlau.com

NUWEIBA
Emperor Divers
http://www.emperordivers.com

DAHAB
Orca Divers
Tel/Fax: 020 62 640020
Email: orcadive@menanet.net
Reef 2000
http://www.reef2000.org
Nesima Dive Centre
http://www.nesima-resort.com
Sinai Divers
http://www.sinaidivers.com
Planet Divers
http://www.planetdivers.com
Fish and Friends
http://www.fishandfriends.com
Dive-Urge
http://www.dive-urge.com
Fantasea Divers
http://www.fantaseadiving.net
Poseidon Divers
http://www.poseidondivers.com

SHARK'S BAY
Shark's Bay Diving Club
http://www.sharksbay.de



TOUR OPERATORS

Longwood Holidays
http://www.longwoodholidays.co.uk
On the go tours
http://www.onthegotours.com
Regal Dive
www.http://www.regal-diving.co.uk
Explorers Tours
http://www.explorers.co.uk
DIVEChannel
http://www.divechannel.co.uk
Crusader Travel
http://www.crusadertravel.com
Scuba Snacks
http://www.scubasnacks.co.uk
Tony Backhurst
http://www.scuba.co.uk
Hidden Depths
http://www.hiddendepthsdivetours.com
Peltours
http://www.peltours.com
Dive Mosaic
http://www.mosaicholidays.co.uk
Hayes and Jarvis
http://www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk
Dive Tours
http://www.divetours.co.uk
Oonasdivers
http://www.oonasdivers.com
Aquatours
http://www.aquatours.com
Wild and Free
http://www.wild-and-free.co.uk