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 MEDITERRANEAN AND CANARIES 09 / 06 / 05
 

Real guide to Malta

With a reputation for good-quality Mediterranean diving, Malta is set to become even more popular with the emergence of low-cost flights and wrecks sunk to order


Gozo
Photo: Jane Morgan



Rozi wreck, Malta
Photo: JM



Imperial Eagle
Photo: Lawson Wood



Pete Probert


Cathedral Cave
Photo: JM



Rozi wreck, Malta
Photo: JM



Fiona Monteith-Preston


Comino Cave
Photo: JM



Tube Worm
Photo: JM



Double Arch, Gozo
Photo: JM



Martin Overy
Photo: JM



Comino Cave
Photo: JM



Bream
Photo: JM



Map


Azure Window
Photo: JM

It takes less than three hours to fly from the UK to the Maltese archipelago, where mild sea temperatures, excellent visibility and a good range of wreck, cave and reef dives attract around 40,000 visiting divers each year. And with the imminent arrival of some of Europe's cheapest airlines, such as RyanAir, it looks set to become an even more cost-effective holiday option for divers.

Situated 93km south of Sicily and 288km from the North African coast in the Mediterranean Sea, the Republic of Malta is comprised of three main islands, Malta, Gozo and Comino. These rugged islands are mostly made up of an ancient limestone reef. This reef covers an extinct submarine volcanic plateau, which extends to and includes the island of Sicily to the north. As a result, this geological formation has created a vast number of caves and caverns for divers to explore. These formations, together with the variety of wreck and reef dives, in visibility that often exceeds 30m, has shaped a varied underwater playground.

The Republic of Malta is a year-round diving destination, with the water temperature dropping no lower than 14ºC in the winter and reaching as high as 26ºC in late summer/early autumn. Underwater visibility varies in the Maltese Islands depending on the individual dive site and the weather conditions. Nevertheless, thanks to the overwhelmingly rocky coasts and the unpolluted water, the visibility is often between 30 and 40m, with 50m not uncommon.

The diving here has played 'second fiddle' to the Red Sea for many years because of a lack of big marine animals and heavy, government-imposed diving restrictions. However, with these restrictions recently relaxed and growing support to increase the number of purpose-sunk wrecks, the scope for diving is improving. Until recently, all divers were required to complete a medical before diving here, but now self-assessment forms are accepted.

MALTA

The largest island in the archipelago, Malta covers 246sq km, with a coastline that spans 136km. This rocky island has a large number of dive centres (approximately 60) scattered all over its landscape. Although most of the diving is done from shore, many of the large dive operators offer boat dives to some of the top wreck and reef sites. There is diving for all levels of experience and qualification. What strikes you most - whether diving a wreck, cave or reef - is the colour of the water, a range of different blues created by the penetrating light and outstanding visibility. This is particularly spectacular when finning from a cavern to a small shallow pool of sheltered water.

Not all the diving is on the coast - some of the best sites can be found at Grand Harbour near the capital Valletta, and at other harbours throughout Malta. One particularly good site is the HMS Maori wreck at St Elmo's Bay. The vessel sank after it received a direct hit from a German missile in 1942. Declared a hazard to navigation, the wreck was cleared and the guns removed. Most of the vessel is buried in the sand, and the maximum depth is only 13m. The bows and entire stern are gone, but the bridge structure remains and provides an easy swim-through.

Those divers who wish to avoid crowded sites, often head here in the spring or autumn. The winter months have the best visibility. However, some dive centres close for a short time in the very coldest months between mid-January and mid-February.

Air temperatures range from a low of 10ºC in the winter and a high of 40ºC in the summer. There is very little rainfall between mid-May and October, however, winds can pick up considerably, seriously limiting the number of dive sites available. Although strong winds are not common, they can last for a few days.

The seas around the Maltese archipelago are virtually tide-less, but there are sometimes underwater currents even when the sea is calm. At times, these underwater currents will travel in the opposite direction to the wind and the surface sea conditions.

You will find most diver traffic in Malta in the Cirkewwa area, which is situated on the northwest coast of the island and is the main terminal for the car and passenger ferries to Gozo. There are a number of popular dive sites here, including the shallow Sugar Loaf location, which is a huge rock detached from the main reef and rising some 8m from the sea bed. A small statue of the Madonna, which sits in a small cave at around 20m, can also be found. Perhaps the most popular site in Cirkewwa for experienced divers is the Rozi, a wrecked tugboat that sits at 35m. Rozi is a purpose-sunk wreck and sits perfectly upright and intact and offers great photographic opportunities.

Other main diving attractions include the sites around Wied iz Zurrieq, a small village situated on the south coast. Here you will find the Blue Grotto, which offers beach access to a number of cave systems. This area is also home to the Um El Faroud tanker which was scuttled in September 1998 and now sits at 35m in an upright position. The cargo section of the wreck is sub-divided into four centre tanks and four wing tanks on each side. The overall length is 110m and the breadth is 16m.

Another Maltese wreck on the not-to-be-missed list is the Imperial Eagle, an old Royal Navy ship which was purpose-sunk in 1999 500m off Qawra Point. It sits in an upright position at 38m. A large number of marine creatures dwell in the wreck, which rests in the area of Malta's first marine park.

Malta has a wide variety of tourist accommodation on offer, able to meet most holiday budgets. Many of the larger dive centres on the islands will arrange accommodation for dive parties, usually at less than the commercial rate.

The Fortina Spa Resort on Malta has recently started to offer diving as part of its package - aimed at those wishing to relax after a dive in luxurious surroundings, or those wishing to keep their partners happy while they explore Malta underwater. For more details see the Fortina Spa Resort website www.hotelfortina.com.

On the surface
Malta offers a range of historic attractions, including the walled city of Medina, a number of Roman ruins and the catacombs. There are plenty of restaurants offering an excellent quality of food. The nightlife is as lively as you wish to make it, with the areas around St Julian's and Sliema offering the best partying spots.

READER'S VERDICT
Pete Probert
BSAC dive leader

'I've visited Malta six times in the past five years to dive with Dive Deep Blue. Malta offers easy, inexpensive diving, and it is only three hours from the UK. I've organised a few club trips here and have always been impressed with Dive Deep Blue because the centre has been here for years and they help out with everything from accommodation and transfers to providing a full diving schedule. The wrecks here are excellent to dive. I prefer coming in April because the sites are less crowded.'

The largest island in the archipelago, Malta covers 246sq km, with a coastline that spans 136km. This rocky island has a large number of dive centres (approximately 60) scattered all over its landscape. Although most of the diving is done from shore, many of the large dive operators offer boat dives to some of the top wreck and reef sites. There is diving for all levels of experience and qualification. What strikes you most - whether diving a wreck, cave or reef - is the colour of the water, a range of different blues created by the penetrating light and outstanding visibility. This is particularly spectacular when finning from a cavern to a small shallow pool of sheltered water.

Not all the diving is on the coast - some of the best sites can be found at Grand Harbour near the capital Valletta, and at other harbours throughout Malta. One particularly good site is the HMS Maori wreck at St Elmo's Bay. The vessel sank after it received a direct hit from a German missile in 1942. Declared a hazard to navigation, the wreck was cleared and the guns removed. Most of the vessel is buried in the sand, and the maximum depth is only 13m. The bows and entire stern are gone, but the bridge structure remains and provides an easy swim-through.

Those divers who wish to avoid crowded sites, often head here in the spring or autumn. The winter months have the best visibility. However, some dive centres close for a short time in the very coldest months between mid-January and mid-February.

Air temperatures range from a low of 10ºC in the winter and a high of 40ºC in the summer. There is very little rainfall between mid-May and October, however, winds can pick up considerably, seriously limiting the number of dive sites available. Although strong winds are not common, they can last for a few days.

The seas around the Maltese archipelago are virtually tide-less, but there are sometimes underwater currents even when the sea is calm. At times, these underwater currents will travel in the opposite direction to the wind and the surface sea conditions.

You will find most diver traffic in Malta in the Cirkewwa area, which is situated on the northwest coast of the island and is the main terminal for the car and passenger ferries to Gozo. There are a number of popular dive sites here, including the shallow Sugar Loaf location, which is a huge rock detached from the main reef and rising some 8m from the sea bed. A small statue of the Madonna, which sits in a small cave at around 20m, can also be found. Perhaps the most popular site in Cirkewwa for experienced divers is the Rozi, a wrecked tugboat that sits at 35m. Rozi is a purpose-sunk wreck and sits perfectly upright and intact and offers great photographic opportunities.

Other main diving attractions include the sites around Wied iz Zurrieq, a small village situated on the south coast. Here you will find the Blue Grotto, which offers beach access to a number of cave systems. This area is also home to the Um El Faroud tanker which was scuttled in September 1998 and now sits at 35m in an upright position. The cargo section of the wreck is sub-divided into four centre tanks and four wing tanks on each side. The overall length is 110m and the breadth is 16m.

Another Maltese wreck on the not-to-be-missed list is the Imperial Eagle, an old Royal Navy ship which was purpose-sunk in 1999 500m off Qawra Point. It sits in an upright position at 38m. A large number of marine creatures dwell in the wreck, which rests in the area of Malta's first marine park.

Malta has a wide variety of tourist accommodation on offer, able to meet most holiday budgets. Many of the larger dive centres on the islands will arrange accommodation for dive parties, usually at less than the commercial rate.

The Fortina Spa Resort on Malta has recently started to offer diving as part of its package - aimed at those wishing to relax after a dive in luxurious surroundings, or those wishing to keep their partners happy while they explore Malta underwater. For more details see the Fortina Spa Resort website www.hotelfortina.com.

Getting around Dive centres will offer transport to and from the dive sites, but it is worthwhile hiring a car if you want to travel to different spots around the islands. Be warned, though, Maltese roads are not the best-kept in Europe and punctures caused by its many potholes are not uncommon. It's also worth noting that driving laws on the island are largely ignored, so keep a close eye on other drivers and take extra care.

READER'S VERDICT
Fiona Monteith-Preston
Dive Leader


'My husband and I keep coming back here every other year because we get good diving at a low cost. The fish life in Malta is not as prolific as in the Red Sea, but the underwater topography is fantastic. The country is also quick and easy to get to. We've been to Malta at various times of the year, in June, September and November, and have always been able to go diving whenever we want because there are no tides and most of the diving is from the shore. We always hire cylinders from Maltaqua, a very professional centre.'

COMINO
The smallest of the inhabited islands, Comino covers an area of one square mile. Only six people live on Comino, which means a team of visiting divers or guests to its small hotel has the potential to double, triple, or even quadruple the island's population. The Comino Hotel is situated on a stunning bay, which is ideal for learning to dive. It is also the base of Comino Dive Centre - part of Malta's Subway Scuba Centre. Despite covering a small area, there are 14 good dive sites around Comino. The dive centre here also takes divers to some of Gozo's top sites. The key dives of Comino include Comino Caves, which is a web of swim-throughs and caves. This site has stunning topography and an interesting collection of marine life. Lantern Point is another site on the to-do list here. It is named after the small lighthouse at the end of a rocky promontory. Reaching a maximum depth of 36m, it is rich in fauna and colour.

The Maltese archipelago does not offer an abundance of colourful fish or pelagics. The marine life you are more likely to come across includes barracuda, groupers, amberjack, bream, wrasse, damselfish, octopus, squid, cuttlefish and a large number of scorpionfish. Seahorses can be found here, particularly in July and August, but are often extremely well hidden and hard to find.

Equipment
During winter, divers should opt for a 7mm semi-drysuit or even a drysuit. As the water and surface temperature soars throughout the summer, a 5mm is a good option for those who feel the slightest hint of cold, or a 3mm for the most hardy divers. Most of the diving here is done under the supervision of a local guide; nevertheless, a compass should be carried at all times. A torch is also an essential companion for wreck and cavern exploration.

Getting technical
While most of the diving in Malta is recreational, the growth of the technical-diving market has spurred many centres to offer mixed-gas and cave-diving courses. The visibility and accessibility to deep wrecks here makes it an ideal destination for technical training and for those wishing to build on their deep-diving skills. A number of Second World War wrecks lie in deep water. They include the S-class British submarine HMS Stubborn at 60m, a freighter wreck at 65m and a Spitfire at 50m.

GOZO
Gozo is the second-largest island at 26 square miles. To get to the island from Malta, it takes just 30 minutes on the ferry or 15 minutes for those who can afford to travel by helicopter. The ferry costs around £9. There are plenty of dive centres to choose from in Gozo and most will arrange your accommodation for you. Gozo is an ideal choice for those travelling alone, because it is small and friendly. It is also good for those with young children, as there are a number of crèche facilities staffed by UK-qualified nannies.

One of the most famous dive sites of Gozo is the Blue Hole at 20m, which can be dived by boat or by shore (although if you shore dive there is a 150m walk to the entry point). This whole area is characterised by arches and cavities. The Azure Window, which is reached by the Blue Hole, is stunning both above and below the surface, with swim-throughs keeping the most experienced happy.

Other good reef and cave dives on this island include the Inland Sea, Double Arch Reef and the Cathedral Cave.

READER'S VERDICT
Martin Overy
Dive Instructor


'This is my third season dive-instructing for Moby Divers in Gozo and I love it. I never get tired of the incredible formations around the island - if you are into underwater topography, this is the place to be. Gozo can't compete with the Red Sea for sea life - but the structures, dramatic drop-offs and huge caves make it a wonderful place to dive. My favourite dive is the lesser-visited Shrimps' Cave, which has walls full of macro critters. The colour of the water is stunning, with a whole range of different tones of blue.'

DIVE CENTRES
Aquarrigo Scuba School
00 356 2133 0882
http://www.planetsea.net

Atlantis Dive Centre
00 356 2155 4685
http://www.atlantisgozo.com

Buddies Dive Cove
00 356 2157 6266
http://www.buddiesmalta.com

Dive Deep Blue
00 356 2158 3946
http://www.divedeepblue.com

Dive Systems
00 356 2131 9123
http://www.divesystemsmalta.com

Gozo Aqua Sports
00 356 215 63037
http://www.gozoaquasports.com

Maltaqua
00 356 2157 1873
http://www.maltaqua.com

moby dives
00 356 2156 4429
http://www.mobydives.net

Octopus Gardens
00 356 2157 8725
http://www.octopus-garden.com

Oxygene Malta Ltd
00 356 2134 5986
http://www.oxygenemalta.com

Seashell Dive Cove
00 356 2152 1062
http://www.seashell-divecove.com

St Andrew's Divers Cove
00 356 2155 1301
http://www.gozodive.com

Strand Diving Services
00 356 2157 4502
http://www.scubamalta.net

Subway dive centre
00 356 2157 2997
http://www.subwayscuba.com

Underwaterworld Dive Centre
00 356 2350 3643
http://www.lunadiving.com

TOUR OPERATORS
Oonasdivers
01323 648924
http://www.oonasdivers.com

Aquatours
020 8398 0505
http://www.aquatours.com

Scubasnacks
0870 746 1266
http://www.scubasnacks.co.uk

Thanks to...
the Fortina Spa Resort (tel: 0800 917 3001, www.hotelfortina.com) and Oxygene Dive Centre for their assistance with this feature and for providing accommodation.

• For more information contact the Malta Tourism on 020 7292 4900 or see www.visitmalta.com.

PDSA The Professional Diving Schools Association (PDSA) represents the interests of the diving community in Malta. Membership is open to all licensed centres, which meet the islands' standards of safety and professionalism. See the PDSA website for a full list of licensed dive centres at www.pdsa.org.mt.

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